H&M is also trying to rebrand fast fashion like Zara With a Nick Knight show at London Fashion Week in September
This September, the London Fashion Week will have to prove that it is still one of the world's leading fashion capitals, following a year of initiatives and investments aimed at reaffirming the city's place in the international fashion industry. Meanwhile, H&M is entering the final four months of a challenging year marked by declining revenues, disappointing forecasts, the resulting drop in its share price, and the announcement of the closure of 160 stores.
The collaboration between H&M and the British Fashion Council during Fashion Week therefore represents a crucial test, one the Swedish brand will face by taking inspiration from Zara's revival. According to WWD, world-renowned British photographer Nick Knight will direct the Swedish brand's show through his platform ShowStudio.
H&M's London show by Nick Knight
The project will offer a «bold reconceptualization» of the fashion show, the partners explained, but it will differ from last September's event, when H&M unveiled its new collection through a performance combining music and public participation. As a pioneering creative force advocating for a more democratic fashion industry, Nick Knight founded ShowStudio in 2000 to make the industry's most exclusive stories accessible through photography and film. His collaboration will help connect H&M with a more elevated vision of fashion that remains inclusive.
For the photographer, whose work has produced one of fashion photography's most recognizable and imaginative aesthetics, fashion must evolve to remain relevant. Working with H&M, Knight said, «we will be exploring fresh ways of showing and democratising fashion, and asking questions of what a runway show can be.» Laura Weir, CEO of the BFC and the architect behind the strategy to revive London's fashion industry, emphasized that the collaboration will help «champion the creative communities that make London such an influential force in fashion.»
The rebranding of European fast fashion in 2026
The collaboration between H&M and Nick Knight at London Fashion Week is part of the broader transformation of European fast fashion, a process that Zara's parent company Inditex began two years ago and that Swedish competitor H&M is now also exploring.
While Chinese ultra-fast-fashion companies such as Shein and Temu were gaining popularity thanks to ultra-low prices and fashion brands were raising their prices, Zara's rebranding allowed Inditex to capture a market segment that had previously been left to smaller, independent brands: the mid-to-premium fashion segment.
Among the initiatives that are part of this strategic plan is the announcement of 50 artistic collaborations to celebrate the brand's 50th anniversary (featuring names such as Stefano Pilati, Kate Moss, Rosalía, and Nick Knight), the opening of concept stores with outstanding aesthetic and historical value such as Palazzo Bocconi in Rome, and the space designed by architect Vincent Van Duysen in Barcelona, as well as the widely discussed two-year partnership with John Galliano and the brand's appearance at the Met Gala.
All things considered, it is very possible that H&M is taking advantage of London's fashion revival to enter the same market segment Zara has successfully targeted over the past two years. Through a more refined brand positioning, projects involving some of British fashion's most celebrated names (from Nick Knight at Fashion Week to last April's collaboration with Stella McCartney), and a narrative centered on inclusive fashion, the Swedish fast-fashion giant may indeed be able to recover from the difficult period that has been 2026. Ultimately, everything depends on the company's leadership, what Nick Knight brings to the runway this September, and how the public responds.