Saint Laurent SS27: the ultimate thrill of proportions A theatrical collection that has already set the internet ablaze
Anatomy of a Rupture
For the SS27 collection, Anthony Vaccarello continues to navigate the aesthetic twists and turns of the 1980s, yet he steers clear of pastiche to deliver a radical anatomical reinterpretation. Power dressing is pushed to its absolute limit: shoulders are sharply amplified by architectural pads, carving out piercing "V" silhouettes, while shimmering, slightly flashy fabrics capture the low-angled glare of the spotlights.
Yet, the show's opening feigns temperance. The initial silhouettes step forward, almost demure, draped in a pearl gray of muted neutrality. Then, tension takes hold. Something disrupts the harmony: an intentionally shrunken, tight vest is worn against bare skin, paired with a small scarf meticulously wrapped around the neck. On the suit jackets, shifting from three buttons to just two instantly recalibrates the torso. These buttons no longer close the garment; they adorn it. Treated as jewelry, or even as pure decorative elements, they draw the eye toward a plunging neckline where the skin is left bare.
This quest for subversion crystallizes in an obsessive variation of trouser proportions -the ultimate territory for experimentation this season for a piece that is otherwise a classic of the masculine wardrobe. On one hand, the waist is ultra-defined, with subtly billowing sides structured around a precise set of pleats, leaving a few centimeters of slack at the hem -a deliberate break that gives the poetic illusion of a garment that "needs to be tailored." On the other, in stark contrast, the trousers become narrow, almost cropped. This collision of proportions establishes a fascinating dialogue between the rigid and the fluid.
The Art of Contrast
Vaccarello’s signature touch lies in his ability to hybridize codes. Mismatched suit ensembles sit alongside the play on transparency that has now become the house's signature. These second-skin tops, which reveal the torso, speak directly to the transgressive heritage of Yves Saint Laurent. But the true surprise of the season lies lower: for Spring-Summer 2027, it is the feet that are unveiled.
Designed by Corrado de Biase - the brilliant design director for Saint Laurent's men's and women's footwear lines- the new derbies are already positioning themselves as the statement piece of the season. Elongated and stretched to the extreme with a narrower square toe, they verge on an almost comical theatricality. Their exaggerated scale, combined with a translucent material revealing the intimacy of the foot, creates an aesthetic shockwave. While the 2010s saw an explosion of clear heels for women -popularized to the point of exhaustion by the Kardashian clan- the trend was previously nonexistent in menswear. Vaccarello and de Biase break the taboo. Alongside these new-era derbies, a slightly kitsch mix of materials and colors instantly evokes the chromatic flamboyance and frenetic elegance of the Congolese Sapeurs. A collision of multiple references that has set social media on fire.
This appetite for contrast extends to the introduction of nylon windbreakers, diverted from their utilitarian purpose to be worn as blouses, forcefully tucked into high-waisted trousers. This is sportswear, Saint Laurent style. They also inject rare bursts of color into an otherwise fairly minimal collection. Here, Vaccarello bets on acid, highlighter-like tones -orange, electric green, and yellow- before giving way to genuine silk blouses, which are more conventional but share the same commanding "V" shoulder architecture.
A Time for Tributes
As a thick smoke floods the dome of the Bourse de Commerce, the atmosphere grows heavy with nostalgia and an entirely different silhouette makes its entrance. Colorful V-neck sweaters become ultra-fitted, molded against the body. Trousers return to a narrow, tapered cut, no longer requiring a tailored hem. At the ankle, a strip of bare skin emerges between the bottom of the pants and the derby. It is the spirit of the 1970s reborn, but purged of its flared look (the famous bell-bottoms). The decade is beautifully rounded off by the appearance of flawless leather pieces, notably a vibrant orange jacket and a beige ensemble of impeccable precision.
Yet the pinnacle of this runway show lies in the finale. To close the evening, three sacred gold looks succeed one another on the runway. This flamboyant finale is a direct nod to the history of the house, and more specifically to one of Vaccarello’s predecessors: the late Alber Elbaz (who helmed the ready-to-wear lines from 1998 to 2000, before passing away in 2021). These golden silhouettes mirror Elbaz’s legendary Autumn-Winter 2000 collection for Saint Laurent, where he presented a gold skirt suit that remains etched in fashion history. By resurrecting this textured opulence, Anthony Vaccarello proves once more that the Saint Laurent heritage is no dusty museum, but a blazing fire that the designer continuously fuels.
