Could Nicolas Di Felice be the next creative director of Alaïa? The rumors have been going on for weeks
Summer is approaching, temperatures are rising and even the rumor mill is starting to heat up. The latest and hottest rumor concerns an upcoming creative director appointment that could arrive in the coming months or weeks: Nicolas Di Felice could become the new creative director of Alaïa. The rumors actually started back in March, at the time of the designer’s much-discussed departure from Courrèges, which happened under a cloud of gossip and just a few months after Pieter Mulier’s exit from Alaïa.
Now, both for reasons of stylistic affinity and to maintain image and commercial momentum, a potential appointment of Di Felice at the Richemont Group brand could make sense. Beyond the now-famous Teckel bag and Mulier’s viral ballerinas, the core of the brand’s offering remains ready-to-wear, of which Di Felice is a specialist. But does this appointment make sense in the context of the state of health of Richemont’s fashion division?
The weak link in the chain
According to Richemont’s annual report, Alaïa enjoys a “strong momentum”, supported by several years of growth, with positive performances in ready-to-wear and key accessories, as well as successful flagship openings in Paris and Beijing and good feedback during Paris Fashion Week. The company presents Alaïa (together with Peter Millar) as one of the main positive drivers of the “Other” division that includes all the various fashion brands.
Yet, looking at the numbers for the division as a whole, the picture appears less triumphant. Sales in the “Other” area (which also includes Chloé, Delvaux, Gianvito Rossi, Dunhill and Montblanc) fell by 2% at actual exchange rates from €2.788 million to €2.732 million, while registering +3% at constant rates. Despite the sales decline, albeit slight, the operating result improved slightly, moving from an operating loss of €102 million to one of €96 million.
The modest improvement in profitability, despite stable or slightly declining sales, is mainly due to cost discipline and a better second half, which partially offset the negative effects of weak currencies and higher investments. It can be said today that Alaïa remains the star of the division, which however is still in operating loss and represents the weakest part of Richemont. This, however, is not a huge problem given that Richemont’s real business, which as a whole remains solid, is driven by the excellent performance of jewellery and watches, in which the group is the undisputed champion.
A bet without too much risk
@nssmagazine Nicolas Di Felice has stepped down as creative director of Courrèges, five years after being appointed #nicolasdifelice #courreges #courrèges #tiktokfashion #creativedirector son original - leonardo
Investing in Di Felice therefore represents a low-risk bet? Yes and no. An article by Glitz published last January explains that Alaïa has accumulated heavy losses for years: in the year ended March 2025 revenues grew from €96 million to €146 million, but it still posted a loss of €11 million; in 2024 the loss was €19 million, for a total red of €39 million.
Difficulties that led Richemont to economically support the brand over time. All data that indicate that the situation of Richemont’s fashion division remains delicate and that investments continue to weigh on profits. This would make Di Felice’s appointment likely, given the buzz it could bring to the brand.
