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The emerging voices of Copenhagen Fashion Week

The new guard coming from the North

The emerging voices of Copenhagen Fashion Week The new guard coming from the North

Copenhagen Fashion Week has once again paved the way for innovation and creativity with the announcement of the SS25 recipients of CPHFW NEWTALENT. This initiative, a cornerstone of the event, underscores the organizers' commitment to promoting new voices from the Nordic region. For the upcoming SS25 season, several brands will join the program: Berner Kühl will make its debut, while Stamm and Alectra Rothschild / MASCULINA will return for the second time and Rolf Ekroth will conclude his journey with the third presentation in the program's context. In recognition of their exceptional creative vision, Bonnetje, Sól Hansdóttir, and Stem have been awarded the coveted One To Watch title for SS25 and will now have the opportunity to showcase their collections through presentations on the official program of the local fashion week, further solidifying their presence on the global fashion scene. Other brands featured in the dedicated showroom for CPHFW NEWTALENT will be Frederik Taus represented by ALPHA and Latimmier represented by Fashion In Helsinki. Additionally, prominent figures such as Bruce Pask, Denise Christensen, and Ida Petersson will provide mentoring, guidance, and expertise to the selected brands.

Support for CPHFW NEWTALENT goes beyond mentoring, with vital partnerships playing a crucial role in promoting the Nordic creative industry. Industry leaders such as GANNI, Birger Christensen Collective, ESPRIT, and Fashion in Helsinki have pledged financial support and mentoring opportunities, highlighting the collective commitment to nurturing and supporting emerging talent. And in this regard, before the start of the new season, it is good to familiarize oneself with some of the brands that are shaping, season after season, the "new guard" of Nordic designers we will surely hear about in the coming years.

1. Alectra Rothschild / MASCULINA

Alectra Rothschild / MASCULINA is a brand that partly shares its name with its founder, who has built it by combining a strong craft base, a focus on femininity, and an innovative idea of glamour. The brand is distinguished primarily by its zero waste technique, developed through training received from illustrious figures such as Iris van Herpen and Anne Sofie Madsen and the founder's work experience at Mugler. Most garments are made using upcycled materials from existing garments or fabrics, while the rest consists of deadstock fabrics. Rothschild had a tailoring background before starting to study fashion at Beckmans College of Design and Central Saint Martins, delving into the issue of sustainable fashion at the Royal Danish Academy. Over the years, the brand has appeared in i-D and Dazed and has dressed stars like Michéle Lamy, Arca, and Yves Tumor.

2. Stamm

STAMM, which stands for 'Scandinavian Globetrotting', is a young brand working with diverse influences and contrasting elements. Founded by Danish designer Elisabet Stamm in 2022, the brand aims to balance classic Scandinavian heritage with the memories the designer has of her own family of globetrotters, leading her to explore the opposition between strength and sensitivity, light and darkness, opulence and everydayness. This duality is reflected in the designs themselves, which feature dimensional and organic forms, and which are born as genderless garments, open to all possibilities of styling. STAMM's debut during Copenhagen Fashion Week, where it won the ZSA Zalando Sustainability Award, marked the brand's commitment to sustainability. Described by the founder as 'truck poetry', STAMM's creations embody layers of meaning and complexity, striving to move beyond mere aesthetics to convey deeper narratives and social messages.

3. Rolf Ekroth

Rolf Ekroth is another sustainable brand creating gender-neutral clothing designed to fit various body types, promoting inclusivity and reducing waste. The Finnish-Swedish designer has one of the most unusual stories in the fashion world. While many of his friends chose to study economics after high school, Ekroth decided to stand out by studying social work. After a few years, Ekroth realized that field wasn't for him. He then turned to sales, and in 2004, when online poker made its entrance in Finland, it became his obsession. After struggling with poker for a few years, he realized that his emotional nature didn't fit well with the game and found a way to quit. After a few months break, he found himself again at the mercy of events when suddenly, a friend who had noticed Ekroth's interest in clothes suggested he try fashion. And that's what he did. After graduating from Aalto University in Helsinki in 2015, Ekroth realized several collaborative projects, was a finalist at the Hyères Festival, and won the Designers' Nest competition. He relaunched his eponymous brand independently in 2020 during the pandemic, experiencing ever-growing success.

4. Berner Kühl

Berner Kühl founded the eponymous brand in Copenhagen in 2019 with a particular focus on the substance of garments. The brand is born with the intention to educate the next generation of consumers about product quality, creating a community of people who share the same vision and appreciate craftsmanship. For the designer, the search for a quality product is a continuous process, combined with the pursuit of a slower pace in the production of their products, which are sustainable from materials to packaging. Utility, nature, and serenity are at the core of Kühl's design philosophy, which applies them to a wardrobe conception oriented towards the product but within the context of a brand that intends both its production and the fashion calendar itself in a completely innovative way.