5 highlights from Paris Fashion Week Men's SS27 Heat, collaborations and sun hats

There seems to be a strange curse surrounding Paris Fashion Week: every major global event, from the COVID-19 pandemic to the looming threat of a Third World War, somehow ends up coinciding with the fashion calendar. This season, the French capital and the fashion industry had to contend with the most intense heatwave in the city's history, forcing several brands, including Dior Homme and Rick Owens, to move their shows to the early morning hours to spare guests from fainting in the front row.

Paris Fashion Week Men's SS27 officially wrapped up yesterday, but the heat is far from over. Now that we're safely back in the office, enjoying the luxury of air conditioning, here are five standout moments from the past few days.

Ami Paris

Traditional tailoring met deconstruction at Ami Paris, where the house playfully rewrote the rules of the modern menswear wardrobe. Pinstriped shirts became skirts, silk micro shorts were paired with workwear jackets, while sweatpants were styled beneath leather trenches, creating unconventional yet polished silhouettes elevated by vintage-inspired colour palettes and impeccable tailoring. Red dominated the runway alongside fabrics that embodied a sense of lightweight sportiness, from featherweight wool and crisp poplin to technical nylon.

Lemaire

For Paris' crowd of neutral-palette devotees and lovers of rich textures, Lemaire remains a benchmark. Calling the work of Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran simply "cool" almost feels reductive - it's easy to imagine they would favour words such as avant-garde or chic instead - but that effortless energy defined the SS27 collection. Presented through an easy, unhurried runway walk, every look captured the essence of contemporary Parisian style. Leather headpieces floated softly over oversized tailoring and pastel trenches, while plum cotton, dark linen and understated stone greys came together in sophisticated layered compositions.

ERL

What does Americana look like in 2026? And how do you make timeless staples like jeans and polo shirts feel new again? ERL provided convincing answers while also announcing a major milestone: the brand's departure from Dover Street Market's incubation programme and the beginning of a new chapter as a fully independent label under founder Eli Russell Linnetz. Unveiled through a presentation, the SS27 collection evoked endless summers in Venice Beach, with every look infused with an unmistakable 1980s glow. Floral prints, stripes and bold colour blocking referenced vintage American wardrobes, reviving the decade's undeniable sex appeal, while updated fits, sheer fabrics and the welcome inclusion of womenswear gave the collection a thoroughly contemporary perspective.

Kiko Kostadinov

This season marked the 10th anniversary of Kiko Kostadinov, a milestone for one of the most influential menswear labels of the past decade. Countless designers have drawn inspiration from the Bulgarian-born creative in recent years, and many were eager to discover the brand's latest chapter - arguably its most experimental yet. Inspired by artist Agostino Bonalumi, the collection featured blazers and technical jackets built around internal structures that created sculptural protrusions and draped volumes. Slim silhouettes and a restrained palette of earthy tones reinforced the brand's signature aesthetic, while a collaboration with Oakley introduced mirrored kaleidoscopic lenses that quickly became one of Paris Fashion Week's most talked-about accessories.

Soshiotsuki

Soshiotsuki's SS27 collection felt like a journey into another era - and that's precisely what made it so compelling. Drawing on themes of nostalgia and memory, the designer explored an intentionally imperfect approach to tailoring through asymmetry, unfinished details and loosely fastened garments revealing the layers beneath. Balloon-cut tailored trousers alternated with capri pants, creating a cinematic sequence of looks that, if only for a moment, transported the audience to Japan as it might have looked half a century ago.