5 highlights from Milan Fashion Week SS27 Men's Quality over quantity

The Milan Fashion Week has just come to an end, an event that we will surely remember for both the heat and the overwhelming presence of international brands. With so few Italian designers on the calendar, this season offered a major opportunity for all the labels from overseas that are trying to make their mark in Italy. Between parasols and portable fans, the international contingent of this Fashion Week proved that Milan is still a city worth showing in, even at 40°C in the shade. What matters now is that Italians realize it too.

Here, then, are 5 shows that stood out to us during Milan Fashion Week Men's SS27.

Thom Browne

All Thom Browne shows follow a foolproof formula: the brand’s iconic uniform, reinterpreted each season with innovative materials such as the seersucker featured in this SS27 collection, combined with striking alternative accessories, creates an unforgettable result. And that was once again the case this weekend at Palazzo Serbelloni, beneath Milan’s blazing sun. A tribute to gardening in its most elegant and traditional form, featuring wide-brimmed straw hats and embroidered insects: in Thom Browne’s garden, one wears a tie, trench coat, and skirt. And the bride is the queen bee, covered in white tulle.

Domenico Orefice

Habitat, the SS27 collection by Domenico Orefice, is all about home. It does so by celebrating everyday life, people, and the childhood memories that shaped the young Neapolitan designer. While the brand had previously focused on more aggressive silhouettes and materials, this time it explored a softer, more colorful, and gentler creative vision. Vintage patterns color '80s-inspired blazers, beige trench coats are left open to reveal white interiors, while the romantic presence of the color red conveys all the affection the designer feels for this collection.

The show was completed by a new collaboration with J'Adore Napoli: a graphic T-shirt inspired by Notes pour un scénario de film autobiographique by Valentine Schlegel, published in 1978, a list of gestures, actions, and principles that form the foundation of her creative practice and her everyday life.

Prada

They called it the “new minimalism”, but there was very little that felt minimalist about Prada. Between cyan leather blazers and ultra-technological eyewear, tailored trousers two sizes too small, the return of Velcro shoes, and colorful nylon bags fastened to belts like a chalk bag, the SS27 collection by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons delivered a bouquet of striking innovations—ones we are certain others will soon imitate. Once again, Prada managed to steal the spotlight of Fashion Week, reaffirming itself as both the captain of the industry and a pioneer of local creativity.

Armani

Armani chose to tell the story of Summer 2027 through no fewer than 160 looks, under the artistic direction of Leo Dell'Orco, drawing inspiration from the Mediterranean’s most natural shades, from the warmth of stone to the vastness of the open sea sky. The identity of the traveler was expressed through the classic tropes of the summer menswear wardrobe, with the addition of a few womenswear looks that brought extra dynamism to the exceptionally long runway show. Natural fibers are the stars of this new collection, with Armani expressing the hope that next year we will be better equipped with the right clothes to endure the summer heat.

Setchu

Among the most interesting brands on Milan’s creative scene is Setchu, founded in Milan by Japanese designer Satoshi Kuwata. The meeting of two cultures is precisely the central theme of the brand’s SS27 collection: titled Caught in the Nets, it combines Japanese materials and traditions (including fishing, referenced through nets brought directly from Japan, and origami) with Italian craftsmanship. The show offers a reflection on the value of care and time. In a period when many people feel trapped in a constant pursuit of goals that never truly bring happiness, Setchu emphasizes the importance of dedication and calm through garments that, while inspired by the past, feel entirely grounded in the present moment.