12 new brands make their debut at Dover Street Market Paris New labels and exclusive collections
Brands with deep cultural roots
This season, design serves as a vehicle for identity narratives and personal histories. UGG® teams up with designer Willy Chavarria for a debut unisex collaboration, fusing the grit of biker culture with the brand’s signature comfort - highlighted by the Guard Boot and a reinterpretation of the iconic 1999 Birch collection. The release is accompanied by the "UGG and KISSES" campaign, inspired by classic sitcoms and starring a powerful cast featuring actors Danny Trejo and Eva Longoria alongside singers Becky G and Ivan Cornejo.
In a realm of heritage preservation, Institution, founded by Galib Gassanoff (a 2026 LVMH Prize finalist), explores Azerbaijani history for its FW26 collection. Inspired by Peri-Khan Sofieva, the line features rare, one-of-a-kind garments incorporating traditional Karachop and Fachralo rugs hand-knotted by local artisans. Meanwhile, amachi., founded by Amachi Yoshimoto in the mountains of Nagano, Japan, envisions clothing as a bridge between humanity and nature, favoring earthy tones, artisanal handwork, and richly textured fabrics. Finally, London-based label A.V. Vattev redefines modern masculinity with its "Nocturne" collection, blending the founder's Bulgarian roots, 1970s and 1990s musical subcultures, and eco-conscious practices, notably the use of deadstock materials.
From structure to subversion
The energy of subcultures and the precision of tailoring run through several of the season's key proposals. Founded by Christoffer Lundman (formerly of Burberry and Acne Studios), Swedish brand Salon C. Lundman injects a Bauhaus-inspired architectural sensibility into a clean Scandinavian wardrobe. Its FW26 collection focuses on sculptural tailoring, structured blousons, double-pleat trousers, and double-collar shirts crafted from fine Italian textiles and deadstock fabrics. On another front, Ecstatic Research, the new ready-to-wear and publishing initiative founded by Ed Davis (co-founder of Brain Dead), debuts with its first collection, "Environmental Studies." Infused with the work of filmmaker Derek Jarman and the story of hermit Christopher Knight, it centers on archival practices and includes an exclusive T-shirt for Dover Street Market. In New York, Pretty Relics draws inspiration from 1970s metal and 1980s hardcore to offer a wardrobe infused with lived-in glamour, defined by heavy washes and distressed, handcrafted treatments.
To mark two decades of design, London fashion house ERDEM unveils its 20th-anniversary collection, "The Imaginary Conversation." It orchestrates a dialogue between the muses and historical figures that have shaped its universe through romantic tailoring, intricate embroidery, and the release of its first monograph published by Rizzoli.
High performance meets exceptional craftsmanship
Utilitarian style and high-end accessories are reimagined through advanced engineering and targeted partnerships. The collaboration between Craig Green and ECCO.kollektive reworks ECCO's Receptor silhouette through a functional, sculptural lens, available at Dover Street Market in exclusive colorways detailed with accent hardware. On a strictly industrial note, Italian label GR10K structures its FW26 collection between its permanent Replicated line (made from archival industrial textiles) and its Mainline dedicated to technological research, asserting garments engineered to withstand time and field wear.
In eyewear and footwear, precision reigns. Toronto-based studio Abicsi engineers ultra-lightweight performance sunglasses entirely 3D-printed, featuring its proprietary "Wormhole" technology that allows a performance lanyard to thread directly through the frame. Finally, emerging brand JUDE, founded by Jurgita Dileviciute and Denitsa Bumbarova, brings architectural elegance to footwear through curved heels and sculptural proportions handcrafted in Portugal using premium European leathers.
By bridging fine craftsmanship, underground references, and advanced technical engineering, this new wave of designers redefines the boundaries of contemporary fashion. Whether preserving regional heritage, digging into industrial archives, or pushing the limits of 3D printing, these labels share a single drive: replacing fleeting trends with meaningful, authentic pieces built for the real world. It is a sharp vision that Dover Street Market continues to champion by bringing these emerging voices to the fore.