5 things to expect from Paris Fashion Week FW26 Menswear Paris never disappoints

After four packed days in Milan, marked by snow-covered runway shows, theatrical presentations, and parties and after-parties that went ultra-viral on social media, the Paris Fashion Week Menswear for the FW26 season finally kicks off tomorrow. And this is precisely where the fashion season truly comes alive: with 35 runway shows and around thirty presentations scheduled from January 20 to 25, the full attention of the fashion system will be focused on the new menswear collections, before shifting to haute couture. Unlike last year, however, debuts are almost entirely absent. This does not mean the hype has faded. Quite the opposite: this time, the focus seems to be shifting more toward the clothes than the shows themselves. If you’re curious, here are five things to expect from Paris Fashion Week FW26 Menswear.

The new minimalism

If London experiments and Milan remains anchored to tradition, Paris and New York are competing for the title of the capital of minimalism. But not the boring or quiet luxury kind: here we’re talking about a nouveau minimalism that plays with materials and new forms of tailoring, while maintaining a strong sensual charge. Leading this movement are Auralee, Lemaire, and SSSTEIN, all brands set to present co-ed collections during this PFW. For now, spoilers are few: the only certainty is that Lemaire’s FW26 seems to be inspired by the gaze, as suggested by the title of the collection, «mine eyes».

Jonathan Anderson’s second show for Dior Homme

@oldprada JONATHAN YOU ICONiC mf!!! #dior s/s 2026 by #jonathananderson (#diormen #jwanderson #modeltok #fashiontok #styletok #menswear #officesiren original sound - joshurro

The most “employed” designer in the fashion system opens the year with two appointments just days apart. On Wednesday, January 21, Jonathan Anderson will present his second collection for Dior Homme, while on Monday the 26th he will make his Haute Couture debut. Despite a schedule that includes around 18 collections per year, his menswear remains one of the most anticipated moments on the calendar. In his debut last June, Anderson had in fact managed to precisely tap into several of the trends that defined the past year, from the Napoleonic jacket to the quarter zip.

Will Dries Van Noten surprise us again?

Among all the debuts of 2025, Julian Klausner’s at Dries Van Noten was perhaps the most surprising. The brand’s former womenswear director managed to channel the essence of the Belgian designer with remarkable precision, to the point of being described by many as his “perfect successor”. Nothing has yet emerged about the second collection, but expectations remain high, with hopes that the level of execution will prove just as solid.

The shows par excellence

In Paris, however, some names go beyond the simple runway show. On Tuesday, January 20, it’s Pharrell for Louis Vuitton, who has already started teasing the collection’s moodboard on the Instagram profile @skateboard (with what appears to be a strong focus on the classic Speedy). Friday the 23rd will see Willy Chavarria take the stage with Eterno, a collection inspired by the crucifixion of Jesus and seemingly accompanied by a short film dedicated to the House of Chavarria. Closing the lineup is KidSuper: according to what Colm Dillane has hinted at on social media, it’s fair to expect a major collaboration with Jordan.

Jacquemus closes PFW

For Simon Porte Jacquemus, this FW26 takes on the meaning of a cyclical return. The Parisian brand will once again show at the Musée Picasso, the same location that hosted the presentation of the Chiquito bag back in 2017. A nod to the past that nevertheless looks forward, as Jacquemus will officially close Paris Fashion Week for the first time. A symbolic moment that marks a new phase for the brand and confirms its central role within the Parisian calendar.