Demna's Gucci will debut at Milan Fashion Week SS26 CNMI kicked off debut season

One day before the official start of the holidays, the fashion system reminds its disciples that August is not a month of well-deserved rest, but merely the prelude to September’s fashion season. After weeks of speculation and anticipation, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana has finally released the first draft of the Milano Fashion Week SS26 Womenswear calendar, following a rather minimal menswear season held last June. From September 23 to 29, 2025, the city will host 55 physical shows and 4 digital ones, continuing a season of debuts that began during FW25 last January. The most talked-about news, however, is the debut of Demna at Gucci, which, as highlighted by CNMI in the official press release, will take place on the first day of MFW and not in March, as initially announced by Kering. Also under the same group, we’ll see the debut of Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta, following Matthieu Blazy’s exit last December, and the first collection by Simone Bellotti at Jil Sander. Missing from the so-called “debutantes’ ball,” however, is Dario Vitale at Versace: the brand appears to have opted for an intimate presentation, avoiding a scheduled runway show. Among the usual fixtures, Diesel will kick off the week, followed by the co-ed show by Fendi on Tuesday; Prada will take the stage midweek as usual, Dolce&Gabbana returns to the Metropol, and Giorgio Armani will close the calendar on Sunday, September 28, with a celebratory show marking the brand’s 50th anniversary.

More than any recent season, the SS26 calendar seems to strike a solid balance between established maisons and emerging names. Among the most notable new entries, the brand Dhruv Kapoor will present its first-ever physical show during the womenswear week, while KNWLS, founded by London-based duo Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault, will officially make its Milan runway debut, bringing with it a bit of LFW’s rebellious energy. In the digital calendar, meanwhile, newcomers include Meincorp, an Italian brand founded by Lorenzo Sala, Nadya Dzyak, a Ukrainian label that has appeared in recent editions of London Fashion Week, and Zenam, which debuted in the menswear calendar and now joins the womenswear lineup. From now until September 23, many things could still change, but for now, it’s fair to say we can breathe a sigh of relief thanks to this first calendar — especially considering the numerous faux pas that have marked MFW scheduling over the past year.