Is Meryll Rogge the new creative director of Marni? Immediately after winning the Andam Prize, the Belgian designer may soon be at the head of the Italian Maison
Among all the sudden changes that have shaken the fashion system in recent months, the news of the departure of Francesco Risso as creative director of Marni was truly one of those cases where the expression "bolt from the blue" fits perfectly. The Italian designer, in charge since 2016, had led the brand for nine years, succeeding founder Consuelo Castiglioni and carrying forward — albeit with his own personal and recognizable style — that creative vision for which Marni had made a name for itself: full of flair, color, and definitely outside Milan’s usual rigid standards. While the first rumors had suggested the possible arrival of Ellen Hodakova Larsson, a young Swedish designer and winner of the 2024 LVMH Prize, according to a report from WWD, another name has now emerged among the frontrunners: Meryll Rogge. The Belgian designer, who just a few weeks ago won the Grand Prix at the ANDAM Awards, is reportedly considered among the most accredited figures to take the creative reins of the brand controlled by the OTB Group. The group has officially declined to comment on the rumors, but according to WWD, it is precisely Rogge who has attracted the most attention in recent weeks. In addition to her recent ANDAM win, over the past twelve months, the Ghent-based designer was named Designer of the Year at the Belgian Fashion Awards 2024, was a finalist at the Woolmark Prize 2025, and saw her creations worn by celebrities such as Dua Lipa, Chloé Sevigny, and Rihanna.
A 2008 graduate of the Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Rogge had initially dreamed of becoming an illustrator, but soon chose to transfer that visual approach onto fabrics. After a long experience at Marc Jacobs in New York, where she held the role of lead designer for seven years, she returned to Belgium in 2014 to become head of women’s design at Dries Van Noten. In 2020, she then launched her own namesake brand, presenting collections regularly in Paris starting from 2021. This past March, she held her first official runway show, presenting a collection inspired by vintage wallpaper prints and distressed artworks, with a deliberately ironic and positive approach. As of today, Marni’s future formally remains open, but there is a certain reassurance in the fact that both designers at the center of speculation are women, potentially helping to increase the female presence among creative directors of major brands. Over the past year, between Louise Trotter joining Bottega Veneta, the anticipated arrival of Sarah Burton at Givenchy, and the leadership of Veronica Leone, who has brought Calvin Klein back onto the NYFW calendar, it seems that — very, very slowly — some lost diversity balances within the system are being restored. Moreover, both Rogge and Larsson represent a possible evolution of Marni’s language, oscillating between upcycled craftsmanship and a sophisticated reinterpretation of the brand’s heritage, elevating it with a younger, fresher perspective. One could say that the future looks bright in either case.
