After balletcore comes bondage?

Strings and ribbons are making a comeback in the new collections, leaving behind their usual function to become stylistic details: knotted, crossed, and tied in original ways — or in some cases, left untied and free. Always a functional accessory capable of supporting and defining shapes, fashion has returned to playing with laces in the past two years thanks to the rise of the balletcore aesthetic, which brought back pink, satin, ballet flats, and bows. In 2025, many designers have embraced the accessory in their collections, from Dilara Findikoglu, who has made the corset a signature of her brand, to Dior, with Maria Grazia Chiuri designing sophisticated footwear inspired by the sporty sandals of Greek warriors.

Dior SS25

Dilara Findikoglu SS25

Simone Rocha FW25

Simone Rocha FW25

Dolce&Gabbana SS25

Ferragamo SS25

It can be said that the return of the corset — used during the Renaissance to sculpt the body and control posture — was the forerunner of the lace trend, with Dolce & Gabbana dedicating entire looks to it for SS25. Riding the same wave of balletcore and the coquette aesthetic, Simone Rocha added pink and red ribbons to almost every element of FW25, with little bows decorating shoulders, shoes, and bags. Maximilian Davis, creative director of Ferragamo, was inspired by the rehearsal room looks of classical dancers for heels and ballet flats with interwoven straps that tie around the ankles in a bow, paired with deconstructed jackets with loose belts. Reflecting on the concept of contemporary femininity, for Prada’s FW25, creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons presented cream-colored leather skirts with dirty edges, the hips cinched with worn-out strings. At Ann Demeulemeester, the SS25 was inspired by the boho-gothic outfits of Stevie Nicks and Patti Smith from the '70s and '80s. In a decidedly more alternative way, Demna reinterpreted the trend in his own style by sewing black ribbons onto some SS25 Balenciaga looks: on the back of a pair of jeans or on the rear of a pleated satin dress, long satin laces formed crisscross patterns, creating a train effect.

Prada FW25

Ann Demeulemeester SS25

Ann Demeulemeester SS25

The Attico SS25

Rick Owens FW25

Dsquared2 SS25

Dsquared2 SS25

An alternative use of this item is the lace-belt: embracing this trend is Sportmax, which in Pre-Fall 2025 ties a long white tubular lace around the belt loops of baggy jeans with repeated side buttons; Sunnei, on the other hand, in SS25 pairs a striped polo with a thin yellow belt that resembles the cords used by hikers for climbing. Again, The Attico in SS25 sews onto cargo pants ribbons that look like seat belts. In KidSuper’s SS25 show, laces become thin threads that keep the models tied like puppets in trompe-l'œil wooden-effect outfits. To tell the more erotic and perverse side of this accessory are Rick Owens and Dsquared2. In the first case, we find a sort of jewel top with laces tied together by silver nuggets and amulets; in the second, the Caten twins present SS25 looks with a bondage aesthetic, such as a sheer dress completely covered in crisscrossed leather laces and tops with buckles and straps, reminiscent of the BDSM world.