Why Chanel introduced its first Indian ambassador

Amid the chaos caused by Trump, his tariffs, and the resulting escalation of the cold war between the United States and China, we were forgetting about India. Long at the center of discussions about the future of luxury, the country is drawing a new wave of attention precisely because of the crisis in the sector, which until recently relied heavily on Chinese and American consumers. The importance of India for the future prosperity of luxury fashion was reminded to us by Chanel, which just revealed in an exclusive with BoF the identity of the house’s new ambassador: Bollywood star Ananya Panday. At only 26 years old, the actress is the first Indian collaborator in Chanel’s history, a brand that, as we’ve seen in the past with K-Pop, has a good eye for ambassadors. With 25.9 million followers on Instagram and a career just beginning to bloom (thanks to hits like Call Me Bae in 2024 and Gehraiyaan in 2022), Panday had already started to catch the attention of the wider fashion industry in recent months, through her appearance at the Chanel SS25 show and in editorials from some of India’s most followed fashion publications. Partnering with Panday represents a huge opportunity for Chanel, which, through a young ambassador, can not only engage Indian consumers but also appeal to a younger clientele. 

We got a preview of just how important India would become for European luxury brands last summer, at the wedding of one of the richest families in the country. Anant Ambani, son of billionaire Mukesh Ambani, who leads the main conglomerates in all of India, hosted with his bride Radhika Merchant one of the most sensational parties ever seen. Lasting several days, as is tradition in India, and featuring some of the biggest American celebrities — including Rihanna, who performed an exclusive concert — the wedding was a unique opportunity for the Ambanis to engage in high-level networking. Reliance Industries Limited, the family's retail company which includes Armani, Zegna, Versace, Valentino, Bottega Veneta, and Balenciaga, and which recorded a record $120 billion in revenue in 2024, could become a rival to conglomerates like LVMH. As if that weren’t enough, in addition to luxury, Reliance Industries Limited is also eyeing fast fashion: last February, it brought Shein back to India with a dedicated app — a strategic move that benefited both the Ambani empire and the Chinese giant, which, pressured by new American tariffs, needed a new commercial outlet. 

After the ultra-luxurious Ambani wedding, the destination shows of houses like Dior and Vivienne Westwood in Mumbai, and the arrival of immersive exhibitions in the country, India is truly taking on an increasingly prominent role in the international luxury fashion scene. After Kering, even LVMH’s revenue is suffering heavy blows, with a discouraging first quarter result for 2025 followed by an 8.4% drop in the group’s stock value (we’ll have to wait until April 23 to find out how Kering is doing). For this reason, the Indian market represents a lifeline: according to Bain & Company, the country's consumer spending on luxury goods could reach €25 to €30 billion by 2030, triple the current amount. Many brands, in addition to Chanel, have chosen in recent years to position themselves in India with regional ambassadors, such as Louis Vuitton with Deepika Padukone, Dior with Sonam Kapoor, and Gucci with Alia Bhatt — but the fact that the double C house chose such a young actress as Panday suggests we are truly witnessing the dawn of a new era, both for luxury and for Bollywood.