5 things to expect at London Fashion Week SS27 Women's Above all, McQueen's return to the city where it all began
The London Fashion Week SS27 Women's calendar is packed. So packed that when we tried to print it at the office, we had to split it across multiple pages. That could be a good sign, given the British Fashion Council's efforts to encourage British brands to stay in the capital rather than flee to Paris in search of greater visibility. Indeed, the calendar features a series of names that really know their stuff: from the very young guests in the NEWGEN spaces - set up by the BFC to give new brands a platform to show without financial commitments - to the grand return of a titan like McQueen, seeing London for the first time in 3 years.
Here, then, are 5 moments to watch at this London Fashion Week SS27 Women's.
The vintage freshness of Oscar Ouyang
Oscar Ouyang has been showing at London Fashion Week for barely a year, following his debut in the NEWGEN project spaces, but the brand has already made its mark. Founded by Oscar Ouyang, a designer born in Beijing who trained at Central Saint Martins in London, together with Yibo Chen, who studied at the Royal College of Art, the brand reimagines wardrobe classics through genderless collections with a strong vintage sensibility. One of the most interesting voices in contemporary British fashion, Oscar Ouyang pays particular attention to sustainable production and craftsmanship, adding the clarity of progress to the romanticism of tradition.
The kitsch poetry of Ashley Williams
Ashley Williams' name has appeared on the calendar for years, but the brand has recently been experiencing a renaissance - both aesthetically, with its founder pushing the pedal to the metal on the quirkiness and kitsch of the collections, and in terms of communications, with cinematic campaigns and strategic collaborations (the latest, with Wildflower Cases). We're curious to discover what theme Williams will explore this SS27, but above all what new oversized accessories she has dreamed up for the show.
The feminine, dark universe of Simone Rocha
The love affair between London and Simone Rocha is a given. Following the official launch of the adidas collaboration - unveiled at last season's Fashion Week and instantly going viral for its adorable blend of sportswear and hyperfeminine details - the Irish designer is gearing up for a new show, which we hope will be as full of pearls, sequins and bows as ever. Although, in truth, the brand has lately been shifting towards a darker, more conceptual aesthetic direction (which we absolutely love).
Charlie Constantinou's adaptable-chic
Since 2022, the year the brand was founded, Charlie Constantinou has been exploring the boundary between technical clothing, streetstyle and refined tailoring. The British-Cypriot designer's work centres on creating functional, adaptable designs with a refined colour sensibility. Developed using waste materials, hand-dyeing techniques and other sustainable practices, the collections are crafted with the deliberate intention of both adapting to the body wearing them and protecting it from external environmental factors.
McQueen's return to London
To the delight of the British Fashion Council and the British fashion industry, McQueen is returning to show in London after three years in Paris. The Maison's homecoming is a sign of the commitment that the BFC, under the leadership of President Laura Weir, is dedicating to the economic and cultural revival of London Fashion Week. Under the creative direction of Seàn McGirr, who took the artistic reins of the brand in 2023, McQueen's show in London could inspire emerging designers who grew up with the myth of Alexander McQueen to keep believing in the dream of a fashion career in London.