Maison Margiela's new line has nothing to do with fashion The maison inaugurated line 2, focused on art and “intangible products”

Numbers, for Maison Margiela, have never been a secondary detail. From 0 to 23, each corresponds to a specific line: from 6 dedicated to ready-to-wear with MM6, to 3 for Replica fragrances, up to 0 reserved for the Artisanal couture. Yet within this rigorous taxonomy, there were also numbers left in limbo, never associated with a collection or category. Among them, 2 and 9. But starting today, the Maison has inaugurated a new line, with a new number, that has little to do with fashion. The launch of the new Line 2 marks an important shift in perspective for the house: no longer a reference to a physical product, but the beginning of a program of «intangible products», as CEO Gaetano Sciuto described it to Business of Fashion. The debut will take place on September 3 in Seoul, at the brand’s flagship store, where an installation conceived by visual artist Heemin Chung together with sound designer Joyul, will be presented, coinciding with the international contemporary art fair Frieze. An operation that ties Margiela not only to fashion but to a broader discourse of culture, art, and sensory experimentation, as stated by the brand.

«Intangible products, for me, means going beyond purchasing: it’s connection, it’s community», explained Sciuto in an interview with Business of Fashion. These statements clarify Margiela’s intention to transform Line 2 into an experiential project, designed not to introduce a new physical product but to create moments capable of strengthening the brand’s identity dimension. However, beyond the rhetoric of community, the initiative fits into a dynamic already very common in the sector: the hybridisation between fashion and art as a privileged ground for engagement. Until a few years ago, major brands focused on massive shows in spectacular locations, openings in strategic cities, and fashion tours replicated from one capital to another to attract international clients. Today, the strategy is shifting towards temporary exhibitions, installations curated down to the smallest detail, and inaugurated with exclusive events, often accessible by reservation, to fuel the public’s FOMO. These are no longer initiatives reserved for a narrow circle of VICs and celebrities, but formats capable of intercepting that aspirational consumer segment which, after years of price hikes, had been left on the sidelines. In this sense, the Seoul exhibition, one of the brand’s key markets, and more generally the launch of Line 2, appears as the first step towards a new narrative for Margiela.

The phenomenon, however, does not concern only OTB’s flagship brand. In markets like China, in 2024 there were 192 exhibitions organised by 48 luxury brands. Exhibitions that not only have an aesthetic or celebratory function but also represent PR tools to position brands in a broader cultural context, often involving local artists or traditional artisans. It is a logic that works: it creates recognition, generates a sense of belonging, and strengthens the image of brands in key markets, particularly in East Asia. The new line by Margiela is therefore not merely a revolutionary gesture but rather a choice perfectly aligned with the evolution of contemporary luxury, where experience and symbolic participation have now replaced purchasing and client loyalty. Art is part of the maison’s DNA, of course, but the establishment of a numbered line dedicated exclusively to “intangible products” seems more like a positioning strategy than a real innovation. An attempt to settle into an already crowded field, but one necessary to remain relevant in a market where the boundary between fashion and culture has become the new competitive arena. More than a revolution, it seems like a form of standardisation,  effective, yes, but nonetheless canonical.