5 things to expect from Milan Fashion Week SS26 Men's

The Milano Fashion Week dedicated to the new menswear SS26 collections is back, but not quite as we hoped. A bare-bones calendar, perhaps too bare. Gucci and Fendi are missing, having both opted for co-ed shows in February’s Fashion Week, along with Zegna, who chose to show in Dubai instead, and Jordanluca who withdrew. Despite strong names like Dolce&Gabbana, Armani, and Prada, the rest feels like filler in a week that, starting with low expectations, proves to be an edition existing more out of tradition than true creative urgency.

As tradition goes, here are the five most important things to expect from Milano Fashion Week SS26 Men’s.

SETCHU debuts in Milan for the first time

The first event is on Friday the 20th, a date to remember because SETCHU will showcase for the first time in Milan. With a fashion design degree from Central Saint Martins in London, years of experience with brands like Givenchy, and the LVMH Prize win in 2023, Satoshi Kuwata is the founder of the brand. Even from the name, the designer’s intent is clear — inspired by the Japanese expression 'Wa-yo Setchu', a term in architecture meaning 'compromise between Japanese and Western culture' — which perfectly defines the brand. A harmonious blend of Japan and Italy, with contemporary and eclectic touches, reinterpreting classic tailoring traditions from Europe and Asia, like the Origami jacket, a staple of his collections.

PDF continues to rewrite streetwear

Domenico Formichetti returns to Milano Fashion Week Men’s with his brand PDF, to the joy of Milan’s cool kids. His streetwear stood out last fall, and now seems more determined than ever. With a black-and-white announcement video showcasing his creative genius at work, Formichetti announces FREE-DOM, the fashion show set for Friday the 20th. And the word "show" is no coincidence in PDF’s case. Formichetti’s runway events are true cultural happenings, bringing the crazy, irreverent, and bold vibe that Fashion Week needs now more than ever. Right after, the trendsetters are officially called to the nss-branded after party, with drinks and a DJSET, making the evening all about freedom.

Magliano and the unreleased short film

«Wish you were here xx» reads on Magliano’s Instagram, who this year, along with the SS26 collection, decided to keep the audience on edge with an unreleased short film. On Saturday the 21st, the magical realism that defines Luca Magliano’s collections won’t stand alone: it will be accompanied by an original screening that, judging by a brief teaser with two photos on social media, seems inspired by Italian history and culture — always dear to the brand’s founder and creative director. All we can do now is wait and see what’s in store.

Andreas Kronthaler brings Vivienne Westwood back to Milan

Sunday morning marks the big return of Vivienne Westwood to Milan under the creative direction of Andreas Kronthaler, after an initial comeback with the FW25 show. Since the brand’s founder passed away, many changes have occurred, but it seems the new creative director of the century’s most nonconformist British luxury brand is ready to get back in the game and back into the spotlight with a new collection. Kronthaler is now the only hope for fans of the brand.

Milano Fashion Library opens a Pop-Up

But Milano Fashion Week isn’t just about presentations and fashion shows. That’s why, on Monday the 23rd, from 6:30 PM to 9:30 PM, during the SS26 Men’s, the Milano Fashion Library is launching a pop-up store dedicated to vintage fashion magazines and prints, at INNSIDE. It’s no secret that the Milano Fashion Library is the largest themed library in Europe, with about 75,000 publications including magazines, lookbooks, and catalogs. This pop-up could become a moment of total immersion in fashion archives — a trip back in time during a week when we’re almost forced to look solely toward the future.