Balenciaga’s fall 23 took mirror selfies to the next level

Balenciaga's Fall 23 collection was unveiled last night in a campaign inspired by the good old mirror selfie. In a concrete grey dressing room, models show off the latest garments designed by artistic director Demna as if they were in a real boutique, a visual trick that, thanks to the sense of everyday life expressed in the images, allows the looks of the new line to take centre stage. Oversize coats, parkas and waistcoats immortalise the characteristic silhouette of Demna's art direction, even though the styling allows them to wrap softly around the shoulders of the models, almost turning the padded shoulders into a shawl.

The Fall 23 items experiment with textile sustainability, using recycled products or bio-based materials yet retaining Balenciaga's signature sartorial attention. Seamless pullovers act also as gloves, T-shirts, hoodies and trousers focus on fine fabrics, from satin to velvet, from soft leather to rubberized mesh. The accessories in this collection anticipate the brand's new direction, taking Balenciaga's geometric approach and imbuing it with the craftsmanship which Demna has always known how to tackle. The same softness found in the looks is reflected in the bags, such as in the new BB Soft Bag, folded in on itself, and the Hourglass, in metal but covered in synthetic fur. Although the lookbook is designed for the autumn months, the Beach Bag in the shape of a straw hat retains the desire for the sea, as does the western aesthetic of the Santiago boot, and the pumps covered in flower petals. It is a collection that reinvents Demna's Balenciaga while respecting the roots of the Maison and its current artistic director. And if the new "purity" of this Balenciaga doesn't make Demna's dark yet ironic hallmark easily recognisable, it is clearly found in the boots and clogs, black, shiny and with a point curled in a menacing way, or covered in sequins like a disco ball.