48 hours in Paris: an instinctive guide to salted butter, natural wine and modern nostalgia Two days during which we eat as we think
No guided tours, no city maps. Just hunger. Just places where you eat well, drink even better, and let yourself wander by chance. It all starts with a coffee and ends with greasy fingers, passing through every possible emotion. The rule is simple: if it doesn’t make you hungry at first glance, it’s not on this list. Follow your instinct, follow your appetite — Paris will take care of the rest.
There are two Parises: the one you photograph and the one you digest. This guide is for the latter. In the 10th and 11th arrondissements, the liveliest, most buzzing and ironically chic area of the city, food is a language, a social gesture, a daily aesthetic exercise. In 48 hours, you can understand a lot: how Parisians eat, how they work, and how much natural wine it takes to feel sincere. 48 hours aren’t enough to see Paris, but they’re perfect to crave it.
Day 1 — slow start, fast fork
1. Breakfast: Blondie Coffee Shop
Start with a strong, dense coffee that has more character than you do before 10 a.m. At Blondie, everything is calibrated — from the thick cup that won’t burn your fingers to the buttery croissant that will make you reconsider the patience of French bakers. The place is filled with people who seem to be writing, but are really just observing. Just like you.
27 Rue du Château d’Eau, 10th
2. Lunch: AMA
AMA is a new-generation bistro: no tablecloths, clear ideas, and food that doesn’t need too many words. The charcoal-smoked eggplant with parsley, pine nuts, and pomegranate is one of its signature dishes, giving the impression it survived the fire and is proud of it. If it’s on the menu, try the burrata with fresh fruit and pesto, fresh and ironic like a conversation at the next table. Good luck resisting the natural wine. You’ll end up with a glass of orange, then two, and toast to the fact that life is short.
2 Rue Bichat, 10th
3. Afternoon: stroll along Canal Saint-Martin and visit Librairie Yvon Lambert
After lunch, a walk along the Canal Saint-Martin is a must. As is a stop at the Librairie Yvon Lambert, one of the most elegant bookstores in the city, known for its art and photography. Browse, read, but most importantly, leave with a beautiful book as a souvenir.
14 Rue des Filles du Calvaire, 3rd
4. Dinner: L’Orillon
Here, dinner is honest — close tables and dishes meant to be shared. Try the Pork with baby potatoes, peas, meat jus, and olives, with a slice of grilled bread and smoked butter. The natural wine flows as voices rise. After a while, no one knows if they’re dining or confessing something.
35 Rue de l’Orillon, 11th
Day 2 — hangover & harmony
1. Late breakfast: Chop Chop Love
No croque monsieur today. Chop Chop Love welcomes you into its bright, cozy space — a neighborhood wine bar with soft energy and an impeccable playlist. You walk in for a quick break and end up staying longer than planned: chatting, toasting, watching the street. Let yourself be guided by the daily specials board and your mood.
48 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin, 10th
2. Cultural break: Le Bal
Take the metro to Le Bal, an independent space dedicated to contemporary imagery that offers photography and video exhibitions — precise, never pretentious. A place that speaks about reality with the delicacy of a beam of light, like those dishes that need no explanation.
6 Impasse de la Défense, 18th
3. Lunch: Rives
At Rives, the key word is precision. Sitting here feels like entering a composition of Scandinavian design with a French accent. The dish of the day varies, but if you come across the roasted sea bream with preserved lemon and fennel — stop. It’s a study in balance between acidity, lightness, and memory. The desserts also deserve their space, especially the smoked-salt chocolate fondant, which tastes of both calm and sin.
31 Rue Saint-Maur, 11th
4. Dinner: Dumbo Paris
End on a high note with a proper smash burger — no excuses. Dry-aged beef, melted cheddar, caramelized onions, and a glossy, buttery bun. One bite and everything makes sense. Truth is often greasy: accept it, toast, repeat.
121 Rue Oberkampf, 11th
