Hermès to present its first couture collection next January This announcement sounds like the ultimate culmination of its artisanal philosophy
Off to a flying start
Last March, rumors were swirling about the arrival of French designer Léa Percke to orchestrate this major project. Ultimately, it is under the creative direction of Nadège Vanhée, the current artistic director of women's ready-to-wear, that this new era is set to begin.
This baptism of fire will coincide with another major first for the house of the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré: designer Grace Wales Bonner will unveil her very first menswear collection for the brand. This strategic double entry allows Hermès to counter the sluggish economic climate currently hitting the luxury sector. With this official announcement, Hermès joins the highly exclusive club of fashion houses holding the "Haute Couture" designation — which previously counted only thirteen permanent members in Paris, including Chanel, Dior, Maison Margiela, and Givenchy.
The keys to fashion's most exclusive club
As we previously noted back in 2024 in our article "Hermès at the gates of Haute Couture?", joining this elite circle cannot be improvised. Admission requirements are strictly defined by the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture, under the authority of the French Ministry of Industry. Protected by ministerial decree since 1945, the "Haute Couture" designation is a historic heritage that predates ready-to-wear, driven by pioneers such as Charles Frederick Worth and Paul Poiret.
To earn this label, Hermès had to comply with a drastic set of regulations set by the commission. The designs presented must be original creations, entirely custom-made and handcrafted in workshops based in France. The house is also required to have two distinct structures: a tailleur (tailoring) workshop for structured pieces like coats, trousers, and suits, and a flou (draping) workshop dedicated to fluid, soft pieces like dresses and blouses. Finally, Hermès commits to respecting the official calendar by showcasing twice a year, in January and July, while offering a minimum of 25 silhouettes per collection.
Insolent growth for the house
This milestone crowns an insolently healthy financial performance. Last year, Hermès posted a record revenue of 16 billion euros, driven by the success of its budding beauty line and the hyper-popularity of its iconic Birkin bag. Leather goods and saddlery remain the heart of the company, accounting for 44% of sales on their own, bolstered by a booming second-hand market where these pieces are snapped up at premium prices.
Under the leadership of Axel Dumas, the house founded in 1837 continues to reinvent itself and invest in new markets. This expansion is notably reflected in the opening of a new flagship store in Los Angeles, the inauguration of new manufacturing facilities in France, and the expansion of workshops dedicated to tableware.
By stepping through the gates of Haute Couture, Hermès is not giving in to yet another marketing trend; it is officializing what it has always been. At a time when globalized luxury is accelerating and becoming standardized, the house takes the perfect counter-stance by slowing down the pace and prioritizing custom craftsmanship and fine artistry. With this January event, Hermès proves it is always a step — and now a stitch — ahead.