The Top 5 moments of the 108th edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo From Cucinelli's words on luxury prices to Issey Miyake's show

The 108th edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo successfully concluded at the Fortezza da Basso in Florence, held from June 17 to 20. Four intense days featured major names in international menswear, emerging designers, and visionary outsiders, in a lively sequence of presentations, collaborations, and special projects. With 740 brands on display, 45% of which were from abroad, Pitti Uomo once again confirmed its role as a privileged observatory on the future of men’s fashion, attracting buyers and professionals from all over the world and transforming Florence into the beating heart of the fashion system. As every year, international guests were numerous, as were the fashion moments involving global brands.

Here are the top five moments from Pitti Immagine Uomo 2025.

1. Brunello Cucinelli and fashion pricing

In addition to presenting an elegant and measured collection, slightly Hollywood-inspired, with soft volumes, sky blue and red tones, and the timeless focus on a slightly longer-than-usual jacket, Brunello Cucinelli also stood out for his clear reading of the current dynamics of the fashion world. During this edition, the Umbrian designer expressed concern about the economic sustainability of the system after a period of excessive growth: "Customers aren’t tired of luxury, but of paying absurd prices. If a garment increases by 40 percent from one season to the next, that’s a problem: I prefer to work with long-term balance." These words are very emblematic in a luxury industry where constant price hikes are beginning to erode the trust of its most loyal consumers. In a scenario where chasing success at all costs seems to be the norm, we could use more Cucinellis in the system.

2. HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE at Villa Medici

In this edition, HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE was the Guest of Honour at Pitti, with a fashion show held at the Medici Villa of Petraia. The collection drew inspiration from Italian natural and cultural landscapes and the daily life of ordinary people. The creative process unfolds like a journey with a paintbrush: an artistic gesture blending colors, materials, and architectural references to build a functional yet poetic wardrobe. Among the garments, the PAINTER’S GEAR series stood out, designed as workwear for collecting color samples, featuring large functional pockets. The TAILORED PLEATS line was expanded with new long, collarless jackets, refined to enhance sartorial elegance. Other highlights included the PAINT BRUSH CLOSE-UP print, inspired by brush color marks, the foldable CARRIER CARRIED line that transforms into a garment bag, and CIOCOLATO shoes, with a playful design resembling a chocolate bar. Finally, with the itinerant project OPEN STUDIO, debuting in Florence, the brand launches a new path of dialogue with local communities and the international creative scene through an exhibition dedicated to the creative process and pleating technology, realized in collaboration with the Misawa Design Institute and the brand's creative team.

3. Niccolò Pasqualetti’s show

Another major highlight of this edition was the show by Niccolò Pasqualetti, who presented a balanced and rigorous collection, rooted in the past but more open to reinterpretation than mere repetition – and notably, this season marked the introduction of menswear. Military garments, classic workwear, sportswear, and tailoring were blended functionally, creating layered looks that were studied yet never forced. Outerwear and fatigue pants were paired with lighter pieces such as tank tops and sheer shirts. The choice of materials was intuitive and varied: silk, linen, cotton with “sprayed” effects, laser-cut suede evoking camouflage, and denim left raw or embroidered using traditional techniques. Some garments featured distinctly original design touches, with draped capes, open-ankle trousers, and shorts that flared out like skirts whose dynamic silhouettes flowed, wrapped, and occasionally revealed the moving bodies of the models. Finally, as a last noteworthy detail, there were modular jewelry pieces that became an integral part of the look rather than simple decorations.

4. The Sardinian craftsmanship of Antonio Marras

For this edition, Antonio Marras moved his Alghero atelier to the heart of Florence, transforming the Via degli Strozzi boutique into a creative workshop. It wasn’t just an exhibition, but an immersive experience dedicated to Sardinia, its roots, and the women who accompany him on his artistic journey, through a capsule collection of customizable shirts made directly in the boutique thanks to the presence of seamstresses, materials, and accessories all working in front of the public. A meaningful gesture that presented craftsmanship not as nostalgia but as a contemporary way to express identity and emotion, blending the ancient with the modern. Marras’s style, always rich in references to Sardinian culture and to art more broadly, found new and deeper meaning through this testimony to the importance of manual skill and passion in an age dominated by mass production.

5. The SS26 presentation by Sebago

In recent years, loafers have become a must-have for every man, almost replacing sneakers – which explains why Sebago is currently experiencing a golden era. During Pitti Uomo 108, the brand presented the SS26 collection, reaffirming its reputation for artisanal excellence and timeless style, which began in 1946 in Maine, USA. Known for its iconic Classic Dan penny loafer, Sebago has expanded its offering to include apparel, which this year saw an extension of the men’s line and a new proposal dedicated to women, increasingly aiming for a total look coordinated with the brand’s classic footwear, including the Citysides, Campsides, and Docksides lines. The season unfolds through several distinctive labels: from the Preppy Style, inspired by East Coast tradition with pieces like the penny loafer and the Campbell polo; to the Dock line, which combines functionality and sartorial design with technical garments and loafers reinterpreted with a modern twist; to the Summer Look, featuring essential and vintage pieces; and finally to Outdoor Living, where technical yet soft fabrics shape practical yet refined garments.