Pieter Mulier's tour de force for Alaïa

Since taking the helm in 2021, Pieter Mulier, the visionary at the helm of the Alaïa ready-to-wear house, has set his own pace in the fast-paced world of fashion. Contrary to conventions, Mulier chooses to present his collections in a timely manner. Without deviating from his rule, he unveiled on Tuesday night his collection, which garnered widespread admiration. The runway show, orchestrated in front of a small intimate group of about sixty people, went against the growing trends of haute couture shows, which shall remain nameless, drawing crowds of nearly a thousand guests. A strategic decision that allowed the audience, seated on diamond-shaped sofas, to experience a deep immersion into the designer's creative universe. An atmosphere where attention is firmly focused on the clothing, their details, and shapes, rather than being dissipated in the crowd or grandiose settings. As the 43 looks paraded on the mirrored floor of the Marignan street boutique, Mulier presented a remarkable spectacle of innovative techniques, drapes, and silhouettes, setting this collection apart from anything he had done before. To achieve this, he set himself the challenge of creating the entire collection using only one thread of merino wool, offering a life lesson to all other houses. Indeed, each piece, although giving the appearance of various materials, was actually made from this single material. An ode to simplicity, purity, and invention, allowing the designer to focus on the essentials rather than maximizing.

Through this collection, Mulier demonstrated that the Alaia 2.0 woman remains faithful to the aesthetic of the late creator but is capable of adapting to different occasions. She can skillfully juggle between different styles while embodying a spirit of sophistication and innovation, whether wearing a simple tunic or a more elaborate evening dress. Sculptural silhouettes, inspired by circular forms, add a distinctive artistic touch to her wardrobe, while asymmetrical and original cuts, such as coats and harem pants in denim, demonstrate her willingness to explore new stylistic territories. The Alaïa woman does not hesitate to combine timeless elegance with contemporary elements. She dares to go for full denim, skirts with flares, fringes, suede, and animal prints. But she also pays special attention to details, adorning herself with coats adorned with wool balls or accordion pleat dresses.

In a post-runway interview, the designer expressed his desire to step back from the excessive sexualization of fashion, opting for a "new type of luxury" with a collection «sensual, almost sexual, but not vulgar». This approach is reflected in glimpses of skin revealed in bold places, drapes, and cleverly used volume plays to exalt femininity, all accentuated by the reflection of mirrors. He also took the opportunity to thank his entire team, including suppliers, without whom he could not have met the technical challenge he set for himself. Words that reinforced the idea that fashion is not limited to clothing but represents life and collaboration with each other. In summary, Alaïa's Fall 2024 collection by Pieter Mulier was a true tour de force, elevating the couture house to new heights and confirming Mulier's position as an exceptional creator, capable of continuing Azzedine Alaïa's legacy with ingenuity and creativity while redefining the connection between the female body and sophistication.