All the new prints from Milan Fashion Week Men's SS24

The Milanese catwalks have been stormed by a flood of colours these days, willing victims of innovation and freshness for next year's summer. This time, however, the brands that took part in Milan Men's Fashion Week seem to have preferred their own stylistic codes to chasing trends, abandoning the invention-poor manias born on social networks in favour of creativity, in collections that differed from each other in silhouettes and points of inspiration. One element that managed to unite them all was the presence of tops and shirts decorated in vibrant prints, each one unique but all clear offsprings of the desire for change that has taken hold of designers in recent months, perhaps a clear indication of their stance against the rise of incospicuous consumption.

Prada SS24

Fendi SS24

Valentino SS24

The first spokespersons of this movement for eccentric graphics were Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, whose collection was punctuated by a potpourri of Hawaiian shirts animated by a traditionally Prada stylistic make-up: on a neutral base - grey, white or peach - sinister-looking sea monsters and florals added bright yellows and purples, sometimes covered by fringes, sometimes interrupted by patch pockets. Simpler but also inspired by naturalistic themes were Valentino's shirts, with long roses standing out from the collar down, or with an indefinite number of sequined flowers. At Fendi, Artistic Director Silvia Venturini Fendi used the carte blanche of the shirts to recall the work of the maison's artisans, also reflected in the choice to present the collection in the brand's new leather goods factory in Bagno a Ripoli; from the pencil drawings of the paper patterns to the work tools of the tailors and expert leatherworkers, the graphics represented a hymn to the work that takes place behind closed doors.

JW Anderson SS24

Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY SS24

Etro SS24

For Etro, Marco de Vincenzo pushed the limits of the brand's deep experience in the field of patterns and motifs a little further, trying to play with sources of inspiration and colours. Taking inspiration from an eighteenth-century book of illustrations found in an old bookshop in Messina, de Vincenzo designed tops full of allegorical images of Temperance, Tenacity, Eternity and Lust, which the designer told Vogue Runway reminded him of «TikTok, memes, and GIFs, which are our non-verbal way of communicating through images.» Also at Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, history was an inspiration that played a central role in the collection; titled The New Caroleans, the soldiers of King Charles XI, the entire line played with the concept of old and new by making use of Artificial Intelligence. Here the tops took on an even more surreal and boyish sense, reflected in the plaid plaid shirts and their lace schoolboy collars. Last but not least, the proposals of JW Anderson, who for next summer decided to bring the great classics to the catwalk revisited in a humorous key: the Oxford shirt wore a gag, the milleraies' shirt diminished its stripes and deceived them, folding double-breasted like a jacket.

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All the new prints from Milan Fashion Week Men's SS24