5 Things to Expect from Milan Fashion Week Women's SS27 This Fashion Week is going to make a lot of noise in Milan, hopefully for the right reasons
The Milan Fashion Week kicking off tomorrow will see the city dress up in truly grand style. On the first two evenings, instead of the usual afterparties, we'll have two high-intensity events: the first will be Vogue World, arriving at the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II with a show whose ticket prices are already the talk of the town; the second will be the Italian "Met Gala" of the CNMI Gala Dinner, which will essentially bring together all the luminaries of local and international fashion for an evening set to open the Salvador Dalí exhibition at Palazzo Reale. We expect celebrity stylists will be putting in serious overtime over the next thirty-six hours.
Nor are sentimental moments in short supply — such as, for instance, Glenn Martens' farewell show at Diesel, after which he will devote himself exclusively to Margiela; or the sophomore collections from Maria Grazia Chiuri and Meryll Rogge at Fendi and Marni respectively. And alongside the shows from the great pillars of the city's fashion scene, from Giorgio Armani to Jil Sander, we'll also see the return of the city's indie champions such as Vivetta Ponti with her Venerdì Pomeriggio, Francesco Murano and Marco Rambaldi.
On the cultural events side open to the public, nss magazine will be presenting the TheOtherWay talk series, which will see Eugene Rabkin present his new book Torn: Fashion And Postmodernism at the Stone Island space in Via Tortona alongside Robert Triefus, CEO of Stone Island, and Davide Coppo and Silvio Campara, CEO of Golden Goose, in conversation with Luca Santeramo of 545 at the Golden Goose Arena, as well as a very special surprise event to be announced on Wednesday, September 23rd.
But here are the 5 things to expect from Milan Fashion Week Women's SS27.
1. Prada Day
For the very first time ever, Prada will open fashion week. And on that very same day, it will officially open its new space, Prada Galleria — which we might describe as part boutique, part museum, part restaurant, but which we'll simply call a temple or a cathedral. It's a doubly significant occasion, as it marks, at least symbolically, Prada's rise to become the undisputed hegemon of Milanese fashion at a historical moment when even the most independent and long-established strongholds find themselves in a period of transition.
2. The Attico's Show
If there's one brand in Milan with a reach broad enough to dress international it-girls, pop enough to be known everywhere, and cool enough to be worn by the most elegant baddies you know, that brand is The Attico. All the more so given that its two founders, Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini, have demonstrated over the years a delightful knack for staging simple shows with always-memorable touches. We all still remember the show with sofas out on the street. The question, then, is: what do they have in store for audiences in the coming days? We are, to say the least, ravenously curious.
3. The New Moschino… Again
After the departure of Jeremy Scott — beloved by some and repetitive to others, but who had, in general, run his course — Moschino entered the era of Adrian Appiolaza. An era that came to a swift close, after which a creative direction that stirs considerably more curiosity has been announced. Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, collectively nicknamed "i Sunnei" after the cult brand they founded and led for a decade, will take the reins at Moschino, bringing to its runway their signature humor. We're keeping our fingers crossed that everything goes exactly as it should.
4. The Two Emerging Designers: Victor-Hart and Neithan Herbert
Regular nss magazine readers will know that Victor-Hart is one of the young, emerging designers we've admired most among the finalists of the Camera Moda Fashion Trust in recent years (Florania, Domenico Orefice and the Moja Rowa duo are also on that list), and this year we'll be seeing his second full-fledged show on the calendar. His strength lies in his treatment of denim, which truly shines when applied to his stunning outerwear pieces and his highly distinctive yet always wearable silhouettes. Staying on the subject of indie designers, Milan is also preparing to welcome Neithan Herbert, an Ecuadorian designer who has so far been based in Mexico and who could prove to be a genuinely valuable and interesting addition to our local calendar.
5. The Trial by Fire for the Kering Brands
With the storm clouds gathering around the lofty heights of Saint Laurent, this Milan Fashion Week will serve as a trial by fire for Kering's other two brands: Gucci and Bottega Veneta. For the former, the world is eager to see its continued evolution and, above all, whether we'll finally get to see something more colorful on the runway beyond the steady stream of black with occasional white we've witnessed so far. For the latter, we're already waiting in rapturous anticipation to witness its virtuosity. The future of the Kering Group will run through Milan as well.