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nss Paris Men's Fashion Week Awards

And the Oscar goes to...

nss Paris Men's Fashion Week Awards And the Oscar goes to...

Last night the Men's Paris Fashion Week came to an end. Between stronger and more powerful shows and other more boring, this was the best Fashion Week of all the Fashion Capitals, thanks above all to the big names featured in the schedule. Between unexpected collaborations, debuts and confirmations, it's time to give out our very own awards, from the best show to the most star-studded front row. 
Here are the nss Fashion Week Awards

 

Best Show: Dior

There's nothing to say, the best show of the Paris Fashion Week (and also of the entire Fashion Month) was the collection designed by that genius of Kim Jones. Right in front of the Eiffel Tower, Dior built a total black space enlighted only by the leds on the side of the catwalk, on which the models didn't walk, but stood still. The runway was in fact a 76-meter moving walkway, extending thoughout the entire space, allowing the audience to admire closely the details of the items. 

Jones managed to find the perfect balance between more strict and formal lines and others more fluid and loose, conveying a brand new idea of masculinity. The stand out pieces were definitely the jackets, because they were the result of different inspirations: military jackets, vests that look like bulletproof vests, but decorated with golden embroideries worn over elegant suits, unexpected coats, with overlaid inserts and interesting details, but also the tight jackets, wrapped around the waist, with drapes or inserts in satin or fur. In the necklines of the jackets it's clear the influence of the style of kimono, from that Japan so beloved by Jones. The variety of fabrics used is great as well: wool, leather, fur - in a menswear show! - satin, and an iridescent fabric that looked a lot like a Stone Island piece. 

And then there are the accessories, like the new nylon waistbag which resembles the silhouette of the iconic Saddle Bag, the belts, lower and thinner, where the buckles designed by Matthew Williams of ALYX are smaller and more descrete, just as the logo, a constant presence but always low-key. Kim Jones confirms to be one of the best designers of our times, and this Dior show will remain in our memories for a long long time. 

 

Best Supporting Actor: Alyx

As the creative director Matthew Williams confirmed backstage, the lines and the silhouettes of this collection don't differ very much from the ones of the previous collection, but this is not an issue when your aesthetic has become so immediately recognisable. With a color palette ranging from black to different hues of grey, with accents of bright red and camo details, Williams presented puffer jackets, cargo pants, striped suits with oversized pockets, leather trenches and waterproof capes. One of his main strong points are definitely the accessories: of course the belts, characterised by the now famous Williams clasp, seen also in the necklaces, but also the chest bags, a lot of them, small and decrete or big in leather, women's silver boots and the first ever Alyx woman's bag, brought on the catwalk by Kaia Gerber. 

 

Best Revelation: Valentino x Undercover

A totally unexpected collaboration, between two brands in appearance very distant from each other. Valentino and Undercover meet in a series of artworks which walk on the runway of both brands a few hours from one another. The main inspiration is Edgar Allan Poe, and the theory according to which he could travel in time. The result are graphics featuring spaceships, slogans about time travel, skulls, everything with a very '50s sci-fi touch. To top everything, the jointed logo, VU, presented in both shows. Haute couture streetwear. 

 

Best Special Effects & Best Finale: Louis Vuitton 

The collection paying homage to Michael Jackson was presented within Jardin des Tuileries, on a set that replicated the corner between Rivington and Ludlow in New York City. A live performance by Blood Orange entertained the audience, before he reached the center of the scene and started playing the piano while the models were walking down. An interesting detail is that the models wouldn't walk straight, but in a zig zag pattern, without following straight lines, while a writer was painting the gate of a fake shop. At the end of the show, a model remained on the catwalk to improvise a few dance moves and acrobatics, while Virgil Abloh made its entrance from a small side door, greeting quickly the audience. The most interesting outfit of the show was probably the one worn by Virgil himself. 

 

Miglior Sneaker: White Mountaineering x Adidas

The Japanese brand collaborated with the German sporstwear giant on a sneaker that follows the treck shoes trend. The sleek silhouette, with a higher heel, is characterised by different materials and different nuances, the logo of the Japanese brand on the heel, the two-tone lateral Three Stripes, and by a sporty and contemporary touch. 

 

Best Location: Vetements

For the first time Demna Gvasalia has chosen a location that isn't an abandoned parking, a grey loft or a simple room without decorations. For the ANTI-SOCIAL show of Vetements the Georgian designer opted for the French National Museum of Natural History: the protest against the current social media era showed in a backdrop that apparently didn't have anything to do with it, but in the end it was a pleasant disharmony. 

 

Best Front Row: Y-3

Even though there were more star studded front rows, this was the one that captured our attention, and for two good reasons: Blondey McCoy and Jonah Hill. The British skater, artist and style icon sat alongside the new skate fashion and cinema sensation, who sported an unreleased pair of adidas Originals. Who knows what they were chatting about. Other guests were Pusha TKarlie Kloss and Adrianne Ho.