Istituto Marangoni Students Present Their End-of-Year Collections This vintage of young designers turns fashion into an alternative language
Far from the clamor of ephemeral trends, several of these collections seize the infinite nuances of silence - whether political, architectural, or mythological - to craft a textile manifesto, thereby redefining the armor of tomorrow's woman.
The eloquence of silence
Where words fade, the garment speaks. Three designers explore silence not as an absence, but as a vibrant presence, a space of resilience and metamorphosis.
"The Voice of Silence" – Amro Njad Atamleh (Palestine)
For Palestinian designer Amro Njad Atamleh, silence is not muteness; it is a sanctuary. His draped silhouettes stand at the crossroads of traditional Palestinian attire and the rigor of Parisian haute couture. Within this dialogue, language shifts form: it is written in the quiver of a gesture, the precision of a drape, or the poignant ellipsis of a motif that the eye senses without ever fully grasping. A tribute in negative space, where absence becomes the most powerful of testimonies.
"AHILYIA" – Tanisha Nevrekar (India)
Tanisha Nevrekar also lays claim to an age-old silence: that of women whom History forced into muteness. Inspired by the Hindu mythological figure of Ahilyia - petrified by a curse before being resurrected by the saving touch of the god Rama - the designer captures the precise moment of liberation. This transition from rock to life manifests through an eco-responsible, organic approach: woven wicker structures the accessories, while a corset seems to fray directly against the body, unravelling to free the wearer. A power dressing where speech is reborn from the ashes of stone.
"A Continuum of Form: held in balance" – Trisha Talpady (India)
With Trisha Talpady, silence is solemn, borrowing from the equestrian world. The designer infuses a sovereign restraint by transposing masculine tailoring codes into the female wardrobe. Fly-front plackets and box pleats are reinterpreted with razor-sharp geometry, while split riding skirts and leather pieces firmly establish the equine framework. A collection in perfect equilibrium, where the garment commands respect without ever raising its voice.
Intimate Spaces and Wearable Architectures
When clothing becomes a place of passage, a transition between the private and the public, the rigid and the organic.
"The Woman Between Rooms" – Carlotta Baader (Germany)
Specializing in womenswear, German designer Carlotta Baader leads a deeply feminist sartorial inquiry, focusing on the physical and psychological space that separates a woman from her clothes. Punctuated by sharp references - from the audacity of Paul Poiret to Eileen Gray, down to Virginia Woolf’s streams of consciousness - her collection explores the transitional buffer from one room to another. Moving from the salon of a grand party to the solitude of a bedroom results in a shedding of layers: the previous night's ceremonial attire gives way to protective, unisex pieces, such as a man's shirt or a painter’s smock. Workwear thus becomes the ultimate refuge of the self.
"Concrete Garden" – Chaerin Park (South Korea)
South Korean designer Chaerin Park envisions clothing as "wearable architecture." Her collection stages a poetic clash between the rigid permanence of geometric lines and the organic invasion of a nature reclaiming its rights. Through this reflection on sustainability, the garment becomes a temporal medium: structured forms are devoured by the living, offering a textile metaphor for our ecosystem's resilience.
Everyday Rituals
From the magnetism of the party to the unconscious choreography of our days, the garment mirrors our desires for freedom.
"Eclipse Fantasy" – Simon Chichportich (France)
Simon Chichportich delivers a vibrant ode to the nightlife of the 1980s and 1990s. The French designer captures the essence of a nocturnal woman, starved for freedom, for whom the dancefloor is the only possible territory of emancipation. To translate this intensity, the color palette turns radical: a face-off between black and white, punctuated by a carnal, scarlet red worked into leather. The wardrobe of a nocturnal heroine.
"Lipstick Breakfast" – Marina Roudier (France)
With a pop-infused title reminiscent of an effective Addison Rae track, French designer Marina Roudier proves her mastery of tailoring, which she applies to singular anatomical constructions. Her collection sublimates the infra-ordinary: those mechanical, almost unconscious gestures we perform daily - rolling up a sleeve, hooking glasses onto a shirt collar, popping a polo collar. By freezing these quirks into the very structure of the garment, Marina Roudier outlines a future where these familiar little habits become the height of luxury.
Ultimately, this graduating class from Istituto Marangoni rejects talkative or purely decorative clothing. Whether they choose to dress the silences of History, sculpt the space between bodies, or sacralize the minute rituals of our days, these young creators share the same urgency: to restore substance to the ephemeral. Through the grace of a pleat, the rigor of a cut, or the choice of a responsible material, fashion asserts itself here as an art of resistance and metamorphosis. More than a graduation show, this new guard delivers a silent yet powerful manifesto, proving that tomorrow's fashion will no longer settle for merely being seen, but will strive to clothe what remains invisible: our memories, our rituals, and our freedoms.
