Glenn Martens captivates Shanghai with Maison Margiela’s FW26 show The themes of anonymity and reality reflect the times we live in

There are shows that go down in history because they transport the audience to an alternative reality, where imagination shapes a story of escapism and magic, and there are shows that leave a mark for their ability to reflect, through fabric, the times we are living in. Glenn Martens, for the FW26 show of Maison Margiela in Shanghai, special guest of the local Fashion Week, managed to do both. After an uncertain start in the creative direction of the brand, marked by collections that polarized the press and Margiela fans, the designer now leading two brands within the OTB group seems to have finally found the right path. He did so with a show that walked the line between artistic performance and runway without ever tipping into excessive theatricality, while simultaneously illustrating the brand’s evocative story to Chinese consumers.

In an urban context dominated by containers, the Shanghai audience witnessed one of the most emblematically Margiela collections in recent years. The anonymity of the masks worn by the models, with faces covered in materials ranging from wax to lace, from what looked like rust to small star stickers, was reinterpreted by Glenn Martens in a way much more coherent than his first collections for the Maison. And the trick, as the founder always taught, lies in simplicity. Combined, of course, with a sacred dose of textile experimentation.

It cannot exactly be called minimalism, given the complexity of certain evening dresses that combined the transparency of tulle with the texture of buttons and other three-dimensional details pressing against the fabric. But it is clear that in this show Glenn Martens aimed to pay homage to Margiela by focusing on the subtraction of glamour, the monochrome of certain looks, and upcycling as an added value to couture.

Anonymity blended gracefully with the Maison’s stylistic codes, this time without the exaggerated theatricality of the Swarovski-covered masks from the Artisanal 2025 collection. Faces covered in chiffon walked slowly in evening dresses where it was the removal of virtuosity that promised drama. Certain dresses, like the sleeveless pink velvet total look or the draped tulle dress following the shape of the ribcage, conveyed a sense of severity and carnal fragility that makes us think not only about our body, but also about the concept of humanity and suffering.

With clear references to the Maison archive – see the deconstructed vests and patchwork leather coats – and innovations that looked to the world Glenn Martens is building for himself – there was no denim, but the creative director seems to have enjoyed cutting and layering lace and embroidery, Margiela found a new balance. It was not easy, considering the success of predecessor John Galliano and the turbulent waters of the fashion industry. Yet, in this sea, Martens seems to have all the right cards to navigate it successfully.