Ellen Hodakova could succeed Francesco Risso at Marni

Pierpaolo Piccioli to Balenciaga, Demna to Gucci, Jonathan Anderson to Dior, Glenn Martens to Maison Margiela, and Simone Bellotti to Jil Sander: apart from Louise Trotter, who replaced Matthieu Blazy at Bottega Veneta, the new creative directors are all men. Until recently, there were speculations that Martine Rose would take Demna's place at the helm of Balenciaga, but the role was instead given to the more seasoned Piccioli. Even though there are those who point out the lack of women leading major fashion houses, the situation isn’t making much noise. Now, just a day after the official announcement that, after nine years of collaboration, Francesco Risso will no longer design for Marni, the name of another young female creative is circulating in the fashion industry gossip. Ellen Hodakova, Swedish, born in 1992, founder of the brand Hodakova and winner of the LVMH Prize 2024, could succeed Risso as the head of the OTB-owned brand. After choosing to relocate Glenn Martens, who after years at Diesel will now also work in the ateliers of Maison Margiela (although the designer has yet to clarify whether he will hold the same role for both brands), and after announcing Simone Bellotti at Jil Sander, Hodakova’s arrival at Marni would mark another major change for the Italian conglomerate.

Ellen Hodakova founded her brand in 2021 with a sustainable approach. Using pre-existing materials, the elements she incorporates into the looks of Hodakova’s collections are everyday objects, like belts and spoons transformed into garments and accessories. Last September, the designer received the prestigious LVMH Prize for young designers from LVMH, an award that also includes a €400,000 prize and a year of mentoring by experts from the French group. It’s understandable why Hodakova might succeed Risso: both maintain an artistic approach to fashion, focused on luxury innovation driven by creative experimentation combined with a deep understanding of craftsmanship. With a direct nod to Margiela’s creations from the ’90s, for FW25 Hodakova transformed belts and musical instruments into garments, redefined the use of tailored trousers and the classic white t-shirt, all in a collection that, though clearly artistic, holds great commercial potential.

To understand where the creative direction of fashion stands, visit our Guide to Creative Directors.