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Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism

An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo

Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo

The FW25 collection by Setchu, presented yesterday at Pitti Uomo, not only marked the runway debut of one of the most appreciated designers on the Milanese scene but also offered a more mature and structured vision of the designer's previous efforts that blend elements of Japanese art with Western tailoring tradition. Satoshi Kuwata, the young Japanese designer and founder of the brand, staged a collection that explores the essence of "reduction" through the use of shapes, folds, and transformations that challenge the conventions of both men's and women's wardrobes. The collection began with a simple square of paper, a base that represents the philosophy of Setchu: starting from a simple element and translating this form into a complex and dynamic language. Folded multiple times in different directions, the square becomes the symbol of the transition from two-dimensionality to three-dimensionality. And just as the white square, the garments themselves transform and adapt to multiple interpretations. For example, safari jackets and coats can be shortened, shirts and blazers extend into square panels, and the tails of a tailcoat can be tucked inside, offering different ways to wear each piece.

Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549195
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549187
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549190
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549191
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549192
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549193
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549194
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549189
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549188
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549186
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549185
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549180
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549181
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549182
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549183
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549184
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549179
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549168
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549172
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549173
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549177
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549176
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549175
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549174
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549169
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549170
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549171
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549166
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549167
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549178

The concept of fusion between East and West is at the heart of the collection, where traditional Western tailoring blends with Japanese functionality. During the show, the designer chose to include three bespoke pieces, made by Davies & Sons, one of the oldest tailors on Savile Row. A tailcoat, a blue double-breasted blazer with golden buttons, and a tailcoat, all reinterpreted with Setchu's signature origami folds, were presented as symbols of this meeting of worlds. The presentation of the collection developed along a journey that symbolically marked the rhythm of a day, from morning to afternoon. Each moment was accompanied by the presentation of multifunctional pieces, where the same jackets and coats were worn in different ways, highlighting the theme of versatility. After the runway, the presentation continued on the first floor, where the exhibition of the many objects that make up the Setchu universe offered an additional immersion into the designer's world. The display cases, covered in tatami and arranged in a circle like haikus, provided a visual and sensory exploration of Setchu's philosophy, which merges Japanese tradition with Western innovation. Setchu has, in fact, built its identity around the concept of multifunctionality. Every piece in the collection can be reinterpreted and worn in multiple ways, allowing the customer to adapt it to their needs, but most importantly, to make it truly their own. This approach reduces the need for an excessive number of garments, yet enriches the wardrobe with items that transform and reveal new identities depending on the instinct of the moment. One of the most interesting innovations of the season is the "updating" service, which allows customers to modify the pieces they purchase to expand their usage possibilities.

Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549163
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549162
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549161
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549160
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549159
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549158
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549157
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549156
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549155
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549154
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549153
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549152
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549151
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549150
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549149
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549148
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549147
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549146
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549145
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549144
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549143
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549142
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549141
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549140
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549139
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549138
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549137
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549136
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549135
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549134
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549133
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549132
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549131
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549130
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549129
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549128
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549127
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549126
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549125
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549124
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549123
Setchu's FW25 collection was a masterclass in reductionism An exploration of multifunctionality and minimalism at Pitti Uomo | Image 549122

The color palette of the collection is intrinsically linked to the philosophy of simplicity and reduction. Essential colors such as black, white, and gray dominate the scene, with particular attention to the gray and black tartan, which represents the brand's seasonal signature. This pattern, reminiscent of punk aesthetics, has been reinterpreted in a more subdued version that plays with various shades of gray to create a more refined and contemporary visual effect. Alongside the classic tones, Kuwata drew inspiration from his native Japan through his use of silk jacquard, modernizing traditional motifs. Among these, stands out a reinterpretation of Genji Monogatari, one of the great classics of Japanese literature, transformed into an homoerotic interpretation and enriched with bold patterns, such as octopuses in a phallic shape reminiscent of Hokusai, taken from Japanese erotic manga, which appear on lace. These very aspects revealed to the audience more facets of the designer’s personality, who didn’t want to limit himself to the simple concept of his multifunctional origami fashion but also infuse it with personality, mischief, and character, which suggest that future collections will hold a series of surprises that we can't wait to discover.