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In Cecilie Bahnsen’s universe, nature takes over. Flowers, a central element of the brand, spread and stand out from the garments and accessories as if they had landed there by chance, while every item in the new collections seems to belong to a girl who loves camping just as much as fashion. Despite this strong connection to the natural world, femininity, and flora, Bahnsen’s designs retain cutting-edge technicalities that result from meticulous and continuous research into materials and craftsmanship techniques. In this great paradox between technological innovation and the organic, between feminine lightness and the strength of nature, fits Cecilie Bahnsen’s new collaboration with The North Face, presented at Paris Fashion Week SS25. Backstage, the designer talks about the origin and inspiration behind the collaboration, the future of her brand, and how she manages to respond to the needs of both Copenhagen women, who require comfortable clothes for cycling, and Parisian women, who always want to look chic.
Through Bahnsen’s hyper-feminine and refined lens, The North Face’s most iconic jackets, from the Himalayan Parka to the Denali Fleece Jacket, take on a completely new shape thanks to refined embroidery, hems, and appliqués. Meanwhile, the palette, split between pitch black and «soil brown», alludes to the less elegant but no less fascinating side of nature: the underground. «This season, I was thinking a lot about how structure and softness can coexist, how a piece can feel both controlled and effortless», says Bahnsen about the juxtaposition of opposites at the core of this collection. «I was particularly drawn to the idea of shaping silhouettes in new ways, using elements like harnessing to create subtle structure while still allowing for movement.» That’s why oversized fleece sweatshirts have been paired with tight-fitting harnesses and floral miniskirts, or the puffer, soft and essentially rounded, has been reshaped with cut-outs and stiff inserts for dresses and skirts. «There’s a sense of transformation in the collection, pieces that evolve as they’re worn, with adjustable straps, layered details, and deconstructed elements that bring a feeling of lightness to even the more sculptural silhouettes,» adds Bahnsen. «It’s always about finding that balance between the familiar and the unexpected.»
Extreme femininity, made immersive by an intense use of flowers and minute details, has always been an integral part of Cecilie Bahnsen’s vision. We could say that the brand, founded in Denmark in 2015, was one of the pioneers of the hyper-feminine fashion that has been booming in recent years, a phenomenon that proves how having a clear and consistent artistic direction can lead to great long-term success. Choosing to use flowers so persistently in her designs was instinctive for the designer, who says she is constantly «drawn to softness and movement, whether in fabric, silhouette, or detail.» Bahnsen is aware of how banal the symbol itself can be, but acknowledges that in their simplicity lie infinite possibilities for interpretation. «I love how flowers evolve and unfold, how they can be both delicate and wild. They also carry a deep connection to memory and emotion, something I always try to weave into my designs.» For this reason, although the brand was born in Copenhagen and currently shows in Paris, the designer tells us about her constant need to stay «close to forests and the ocean» to find inspiration. «The shifting light, changing colors, and contrasts between elements all influence how I work with fabric, texture, and volume. I’m also drawn to landscapes beyond Denmark, mountains especially, but also the way different terrains create distinct atmospheres.»
Scandinavian design—minimalist and fundamentally functional—is the main theme of Cecilie Bahnsen, even though other geographic realities influence her artistic direction. Before launching the brand, the Copenhagen-born designer trained in London, where she studied at the Royal College of Art and worked in Erdem’s ateliers, and in Paris, where she contributed to the dazzling creations of John Galliano. That’s why her designs combine ready-to-wear and couture, Bahnsen tells us—the same reason why she has always maintained a deep «love for detail and a sense of romance,» she adds. «But it’s always balanced with the Scandinavian minimalism and ease that feels second nature to me. And yes, the women around me, how they wear clothes, how they move, continuously shape my approach.» In Copenhagen, women ride bicycles and live through some of the darkest days in the world, so they need colorful and functional clothes, while in Paris, Bahnsen says, «they have this laissez-faire approach to dressing that resonates with how I see fashion.» The designer admires Parisian women’s effortless style but also the care they devote to their wardrobes. «There’s more of a heritage mindset, a sense of passing things down, which is something I find really inspiring,» and she adds that this is precisely why she and her team chose to continue expanding the brand in Denmark but present it in the French capital. «We’re a small fish in a big pond here, and that motivates me to push further.»
Given the incredible wave of success that Cecilie Bahnsen’s designs have seen in recent years, it’s only natural to wonder whether the designer views online virality as a tool to further promote the brand. Thanks to brands like hers, hyper-feminine aesthetics have become a trend on social media, so there would be nothing wrong with seizing the opportunity. Both Asics and The North Face continue to seek out the designer for new collaborations, confirming that the trend of hyper-feminine footwear shows no sign of slowing down. That said, Bahnsen states that her work does not focus on virality or trends. «Our growth on social media has always been organic,» says the designer. «When it comes to collaborations, it’s always about the design—about finding partners who can help us push our universe forward. There has to be a natural synergy between the brands. Whether it’s The North Face’s mountaineering heritage or Asics’ sports expertise, these collaborations are about expanding what Cecilie Bahnsen can be, rather than chasing trends or virality.» What has helped the brand maintain its independence and record steady growth over the years, the designer reports, has ultimately been Bahnsen’s determination in promoting her values and vision—advice she would give to any young creative who wants to follow in her footsteps: «Believe in your vision. There will be challenges, and it won’t always be easy, but if you stay true to what you do, people will recognize it.»
CREDITS:
Photographer Marco Lombardi
Interview Adelaide Guerisoli
Photographer Marco Lombardi
Interview Adelaide Guerisoli