The story of jazz in Paris How African American soldiers brought the wild sound to the French capital

The story of jazz in Paris started way back. It was during World War I, when the United States had just deployed African American soldiers to France. Among them was the 369th Infantry Regiment, also called the Harlem Hellfighters, who fought through major battles like the Second Battle of the Marne, spending 191 days in the trenches — the longest of any American unit. As noted by the Library of Congress, “they never lost an inch of ground or had a man captured.” Their military feat earned them the Croix de Guerre from the French Republic. But the 369th weren’t just heroes in combat — they were also heroes on stage. Lieutenant James Reese Europe, already a force in New York’s music scene before the war, formed the Hellfighters Band and led his regiment to perform for British, French, and American troops and civilians, lifting spirits and introducing a new kind of rhythm to the region. It wasn’t just music — it was jazz.

From the barracks to the bars, jazz swept through Paris in the 1920s, during the famous années folles, or “crazy years.” The movement drew a wave of American artists who found in Paris a kind of creative freedom they couldn’t have back home. The city became a playground for artistic expression, where figures like Josephine Baker, Cole Porter, Ella Fitzgerald, Louis Armstrong, and Sidney Bechet (to name a few) took the spotlight, shaping not just the sound but also the story of jazz in Paris.

That was until the Great Depression hit. As the economy crashed, many performers packed up and returned to the United States — but the music didn’t leave with them. In Paris, jazz found new promoters. Two students, Hugues Panassié and Charles Delaunay, launched the Hot Club de France in 1932, an association dedicated to keeping the genre alive and growing. Just two years later, guitarist Django Reinhardt and violinist Stéphane Grappelli formed the Quintette du Hot Club de France.

In 1924, Bal Blomet opened in Paris — the oldest jazz club in the capital. Founded by Jean Rézard des Wouves, the legendary venue at 33 rue Blomet in the 15th arrondissement became a hub for jazz enthusiasts. In its early days, it drew icons like Josephine Baker, Man Ray, Kiki de Montparnasse, and Jean Cocteau. The club eventually closed its doors, but after a long pause, it reopened in 2017. It remains very much alive today and is a perfect spot if you want to see a live jazz band in Paris.

Today, jazz is still very much alive in Paris. The Hot Club de France continues to promote authentic jazz and support musicians and other artists who practice it, while the city itself is home to numerous clubs, nights, and devoted audiences. The Caveau de la Huchette is considered a must-visit destination for jazz lovers, and the New Morning is another famous club that has seen legends like Miles Davis perform on its stage. On Rue des Lombards, you’ll find three iconic jazz spots: Les Ducs des Lombards, Le Baiser Salé, and Sunset/Sunside. Every Wednesday, the Serpent à Plume hosts a lively jazz night, attracting a stylish young dancing crowd. For something more alternative, La Gare/Le Gore offers a cool, underground vibe, with jazz bands playing early evenings every day — for free.