In what sense is blue the Xanax of fashion? We are so stressed that we have started dressing in blue again
If you've recently felt the urge to buy a blue coat or jacket, you're not alone. According to a recent report by Lyst, searches for navy blue garments are steadily on the rise. The reason behind this sudden chromatic attachment? Our stress. Immersed in a daily life where we are constantly exposed to visual stimuli and hypersaturated hues designed to excite us and capture our attention, seeking out blue in our style choices means taking refuge in a color that, for psychological reasons as well as historical conditioning, promotes calm and fosters emotional stability.
If we think about it, dark blue is the color of Naval uniforms and the uniforms of various airline staff, of workers' overalls, of certain school uniforms, and also of the power suit worn by many politicians. Its deeper shades evoke — both in those who wear them and those who observe them — precision, composure, institutional authority, and even trustworthiness. But will simply dressing in blue really be enough to keep anxiety at bay?
Navy blue on the runway
Fashion has been well prepared for consumers' overwhelming desire for soothing clothing. The contemporary rediscovery of '90s minimalism, the omnipresence in collections of trends such as corporate chic, and the constant references to the old money aesthetic have decisively paved the way for this navy blue epidemic. At Ralph Lauren, this shade has always been the stylistic manifesto of the wealthy, noble American man: deep blue cable-knit sweaters and safari jackets accompany him on the golf course and during his weekends on the water.
By virtue of the aura of reliability and control it evokes, navy blue is used for office suits: in the case of Auralee, Vetements, and Wales Bonner, we find blue "sartorial armor" built to face the most tense boardroom meetings, while at Dior Homme and Emporio Armani the silhouette is decidedly more relaxed and deconstructed. For Dior, Jonathan Anderson creates a double-breasted jacket in a shade between royal and navy with a distinctive crumpled texture, while Emporio Armani renders various tones of midnight blue through fluid, transparent fabrics.
In some cases, navy blue becomes synonymous with formal restraint and auteur minimalism: while Public School offers oversized, enveloping suits, Kiko Kostadinov presents a total navy look featuring a draped long-sleeve top. Beyond the customary navy blue trench coats from minimalist brands such as The Row and Carven, at Jil Sander the austerity of dark blue is subverted and "deconstructed" through blazers with asymmetric fastenings.
For Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta, the chromatic spectrum of SS27 ranges from deep blue to optical white: the intrecciato leather trench coats and clean-lined blazers are pieces that speak of the transition from winter to spring. Then there are those who prefer to experiment and play with blue's neutrality: Julian Klausner, for instance, at Dries Van Noten sends fluid silk tops and blue coats down the runway, from which light floral-printed scarves emerge, while Simone Rocha applies crystals and taffeta roses to jackets with utility details.
Characters and uniforms in navy blue
Navy blue has been skillfully used on the runway to sketch out genuine social characters: at Gucci, this color dresses in turn the wealthy Milanese socialite, the young aristocrat with a passion for equestrian sports, and even the classic metrosexual footballer of the early 2000s. At Tom Ford, meanwhile, an intense blue materializes in the pinstripe suit of a seducer.
In women's wardrobes, two navy blue elements tied to the concept of uniform keep returning to the runways: pleated skirts, often paired with derby lace-ups, as seen in Hodakova's SS27 collection, and the V-neck sweater presented by Diesel with a worn, distressed effect. Sometimes the piece is worn over a classic light blue shirt, as at Tod's, or directly against the skin, as in the case of Marie Adam-Leenaerdt. Following this same aesthetic thread, the brand Mame Kurogouchi chooses to focus on the blue school uniforms used in Japan, reflecting on how garments that appear identical for everyone can transform into instruments of individual as well as collective expression.
In short, when life becomes too complicated and the mind goes into overthinking mode, fashion already has its remedy at the ready: a healthy dose of dark blue to restore control and inner peace. Be warned, however, about the side effects if you set your sights on runway pieces: wearing a luxury navy blue garment may initially soothe your nerves, but the price tag will probably send your heart racing. At that point, you might be better off abandoning the shopping trip and trying to calm down with a classic passionflower herbal tea.