What the jewellery of FW25 tells us about the state of fashion

Lock-shaped earrings, gold pins with sharp lines, extra-large pearls brushing the floor. At FW25, jewelry was not just an accessory: it became the message. Brands used it to define identity, build silhouettes, and speak of aesthetic and economic value. According to the Altagamma Consensus 2025, the luxury jewelry sector recorded a 4.5% growth. This explains why more and more fashion houses, even those primarily focused on clothing, are investing in jewelry collections. Compared to garments, jewelry is produced faster, does not require specific sizes, and allows a brand to become instantly recognizable. The report by McKinsey & Company predicts that the global jewelry market will reach $250 billion by 2025, alongside a shift in purchasing criteria. As Il Sole 24 Ore highlights, by 2025, 20-30% of sales will be influenced by environmental factors. Companies like Chopard, Tiffany & Co., and Bulgari are already investing in ethical gold, lab-grown diamonds, transparency, and low-impact production. Meanwhile, vintage continues to expand. As Vogue Business reports, platforms like The RealReal and Vestiaire Collective are seeing consistent growth in jewelry sales.

One of the clearest examples of where jewelry is headed comes from Schiaparelli. Creative director Daniel Roseberry has emphasized the industrialization of couture jewelry, aiming to bring his sculptural pieces to a wider audience while maintaining the maison’s signature surreal aesthetic. In the FW25 collection, a golden necklace depicted a fragmented face: a central eye, teardrops shaped like pearls, a sculpted metal nose, and lips. A small lock, a recurring brand symbol, served as the clasp—evoking something hidden, personal, private. Similarly, at Chloé, creative director Chemena Kamali followed the same idea, presenting jewelry that looked like personal objects, kept over time. Necklaces and pendants hung from chatelaine-style chains, paired with 1980s-inspired bow blouses. Kamali illustrated how a woman’s wardrobe evolves over time—pieces are collected, gifted, kept, and rediscovered. In this context, jewelry carries emotional value that grows with time. Balmain also worked with strong symbols: horn-shaped earrings, thick golden bracelets, and objects like hearts or lipsticks, serving more for identity recognition than mere decoration.

The return of pearls follows no single direction. Some brands opted for a more subdued take, while others turned them into bold visual statements. Moschino, for example, in FW25 chose a compact, gold-toned form, moving away from traditional aesthetics. Sandy Liang maintained a more classic approach, focusing on small white pearls that convey a certain idea of discreet elegance. London-based brand Huishan Zhang experimented with proportions: its earrings, composed of two large spheres, balance minimalism and visual impact. Isabel Marant also embraced this trend, anticipating some tendencies later seen in the main fashion weeks. Her approach was more romantic: white pearls cascading around the face, allowing the jewelry to define the look.

In other collections, pearls took on a completely different role. They no longer evoke quiet elegance but excess and provocation. Chanel, currently in a moment of transition, allowed its design team to navigate between Coco Chanel’s minimalism and Karl Lagerfeld’s baroque style for FW25. The result: oversized pearls, pink glass spheres, and golden chains. In some cases, such as the pearl belt entirely made of pearls, the accessory became an integral part of the garment, redefining the entire look. The same applies to Vaquera, which presented an extreme version of extra-large pearl necklaces so long they brushed the floor. Dsquared2, celebrating its 30th anniversary, opted for extra-large chains and ultra-long earrings, emphasizing visibility. Similarly, Gucci, also undergoing a creative leadership change, embraced a similar approach with double-looped gold chains featuring a central pendant—easy to pair yet impossible to ignore.

Miu Miu chose large brooches and golden earrings, adding weight to each look. The statement jewelry remains central, reinforcing the trend of sculptural accessories that capture attention. The brand, consistently ranking among the most coveted by new consumers, confirms the return of power jewelry: bold pieces that transform and complete an outfit with personality and character. Gold is the standout material of FW25: from Schiaparelli and Balmain’s bright yellow gold to Zimmermann’s vintage-effect gold-plated brass, this precious metal remains dominant because it instantly communicates value. The trend is also evident on social media, with TikTok registering over 486,000 posts under #goldjewelry, while #silverjewelry lags at around 305,000. This shows that beyond the runway, gold continues to shape everyday tastes.