The 5 best shows from New York Fashion Week SS26 The unexpected highlight was LII's debut on the catwalk

The New York Fashion Week SS26, which concluded yesterday in Manhattan, was a strong testament to the vitality of American fashion, with over 50 designers showcasing collections through runway shows and presentations, blending classic American style, avant-garde flavors, and often highly elaborate proportions. In an edition marked by a strong polarity between long ball gowns and everyday wardrobes and a focus on commercial silhouettes, the week highlighted the maturation of New York fashion. Among the undisputed highlights were Fforme, with its minimalist and sculptural elegance that redefined the contours of tailoring; Altuzarra, with its stunning leather pants and jackets in a collection that has never been so chic; and Khaite, which reaffirms itself as one of the few brands capable of delivering compelling minimalism, this year taking a darker turn that greatly enhanced its aesthetic.

Here are the 5 best shows of New York Fashion Week SS26.

1. Brandon Maxwell

Brandon Maxwell celebrated his 10 years in the industry with an SS26 collection that exudes optimism and a perfect balance between vintage nostalgia and futuristic textures. Presented on an intimate and luminous runway, the show opened with light, flowing floral dresses evoking 1990s English gardens, then evolved into structured silhouettes with metallic touches and asymmetrical draping. Vibrant colors, from sun yellow to powder pink, dominated the palette, while details like oversized shoulder pads and ruffled skirts added a playful flair.

2. LII

Zane Li made a triumphant debut at NYFW with LII’s SS26 collection, transforming the brand, founded in 2023, into an original voice through the simplicity and ingenuity of its creations. Rooted in an aesthetic of “soft strength,” the show opened with looks created by layered stacks of five cotton shirts, with impeccable color coordination that was both chaotic and incredibly rational. The rest of the show continued with pieces straddling the line between utilitarian and entirely abstract, with honestly impeccable styling and such mastery and control of silhouettes and materials that it astonished for a debuting designer.

3. Anna Sui

Anna Sui captivated the audience with an SS26 collection that revisits her iconic bohemian vibe, infusing it with a contemporary and playful touch. The runway, immersed in a 1970s festival atmosphere, featured printed cotton pinafore dresses, slips with cascades of ruffles, and transparent mesh with floral and paisley patterns. Vivid colors like burnt orange and navy blue dominated, while accessories such as floppy hats and shoulder bags added a nomadic air. This collection was not only a tribute to Sui’s past, including references to her 1994 shows, but also a moment of sincerity that reminded us how much we miss the playful innocence of the past.

4. Eckhaus Latta

Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta elevated their sense of extreme coolness in the SS26 collection, focusing on highly inviting textures (you feel comfortable just looking at the lookbook) and clean, contemporary cuts that blend sensuality and minimalism in a way reminiscent of modern classics like Lemaire and Auralee. The show opened with total black ensembles, transparent tanks, and flowing pants, then transitioned into cutout tops, metallic studs, and dresses in lightweight knits. Yet, the cuts were absolutely spot-on, and the materials greatly elevated designs that only appeared deceptively simple.

5. Elena Velez

Elena Velez closed the week with an intimate and reflective SS26, characterized by a smoky, grayish palette in a show that aimed to convey the decadence and unease that undoubtedly, in these complicated times, permeate many American creatives. Draped cotton jersey pieces and a certain spectral burlesque vibe dominated the scene, with asymmetrical dresses, corsets in various shapes and sizes, and garments with 19th-century lines evoking the atmosphere of America during the Civil War, speaking to both vulnerability and melancholy as well as strength and anger. Influenced by a personal and unconventional approach, the collection embraced oxidized tones like earthy orange and dirty grays, creating silhouettes marked by a sense of melancholy and an almost looming supernatural threat.