The magical realism of AMI Paris' SS26 show

Yesterday, at the close of the second day of Paris Fashion Week Men’s SS26, Place des Victoires was transformed into an open-air runway to host AMI Paris’s SS26 show, the brand founded by Alexandre Mattiussi, whose headquarters are located right in the square. To the notes of Ravel’s Boléro, models walked around the equestrian statue of Louis XIV in a circular motion, which then culminated with music by Edith Piaf and her iconic song La Foule. A musical choice meant not only to convey the deeply French essence of the brand but also Mattiussi’s vision of fashion: an idealized tranche-de-vie, an elevated and romantic form of everyday life that comes to life precisely in the square and on the street — the symbolic place where fashion is actually worn, beyond magazines, showrooms, and conventional catwalks. Beyond the famous heart-shaped logo, which was absent from the show, the true stylistic hallmark of Mattiussi’s collections is a deep pragmatism which, far from diving into the perhaps sterile pursuit of pure functionality, speaks to those who see fashion as a way to enhance and enrich reality through an effortlessly elegant style, clearly inspired by Parisians and their taste for chic.

Every piece seen yesterday, no matter how refined, appeared immediately wearable. The wardrobe is broad and designed to embrace all the different facets of metropolitan life: from relaxed jersey and knitwear pieces to more structured garments inspired by 1970s tailoring — a style evident in the generous abundance of oversized collars that framed the neck and shoulders of many looks. The silhouettes played with bold yet balanced proportions: wide-leg trousers, in some cases with tone-on-tone integrated belt loops; trapeze skirts in various lengths; and above all, an abundance of striped shirts (the slightly vintage stripes, with a comfortable feel and calming yacht club-style colors, are clearly the look of the season), often worn with raised collars, half-tucked into trousers or skirts, and with rolled-up sleeves, as if caught in a spontaneous moment of work — but also layered over lightweight knitted dresses. One of the collection’s strengths was the alternation between oversized and more fitted garments — a contrast particularly visible in the jackets, which ranged from unstructured to closely tailored. The play of contrasts was further emphasized by exposed and oversized stitching, which highlighted the tailoring construction and introduced subtle, unobtrusive detailing throughout the garments.

The color choices also echoed this same versatility: matcha greens and pastel yellows, neutral tones like beige, black, and anthracite gray; plenty of white and plenty of blue — in short, classic summer shades that, in this collection, took on a richness of their own that elevated them above the ordinary. The work on materials was equally meticulous: organza, double cotton, linen, wool, and silk took center stage, often combined in the same look with fluid knitwear, raw denim, and leather. The accessories were also particularly interesting. The highlight was the new Carrousel Homme in grained leather, a masculine take on the classic satchel. There was also a women's version with the same name, as well as the Mimi in new sizes and colors, while the Étienne shoulder bag made its debut. On the occasion of the fashion show, members of the backstage team and Maison staff present at the event also wore a black T-shirt created especially for the event. The garment features a small white “Ami de Cœur” logo on the chest and, on the back, the words “Place des Victoires” in white lettering. The T-shirt will be available for purchase starting today at the Ami Paris boutique located in the Le Marais district, as well as on the official website.Among the footwear stood out suede loafers and canvas slip-ons, men’s shoes with squared toes and glossy leather finishes, and women’s leather flip-flop sandals, along with models featuring low heels and sleek silhouettes — all embodying the idea of realistic fashion, designed to be worn effortlessly. With this show, Mattiussi and his AMI once again confirmed their ability to merge classic elegance with a modern, genuinely wearable vision, offering pieces that stand out not for excess but for precision, balance, and freshness. It is a kind of fashion that celebrates everyday life with style, never at the cost of freedom.