Why has Lanvin deserted the catwalks of the Fashion Week?

If everything began for Maison Lanvin more than a century ago in a small, discreet hat shop in the heart of Paris, the brand has grown significantly since then. However, between declining sales, the departure of its creative director, and the luxury sector's crisis, even France’s oldest active couture house can face challenges. Despite being forced to step back and momentarily withdraw from Paris Fashion Week, the institution now seems ready to reclaim its place in the fashion world, as it prepares for a grand comeback on the Parisian runways next January, led by a new creative director eager to make a mark (both literally and figuratively). Let’s take a closer look at Maison Lanvin’s current situation, the reasons behind its absence from the fashion scene, and the profile of the new figure determined to revive this fashion giant, which—despite recent storms—is far from being forgotten.

Two years. That’s how long it took for the Maison to recover and find the energy necessary to reintroduce itself to the world in the right way. While Bruno Sialelli had firmly held the creative reins of the house since 2019, his departure in March 2023 somewhat destabilized the brand, forcing it to take a pause to reassess its strategy and plan for the future. This instability was reflected in its sales: the brand’s revenue fell from €57 million in the first half of 2023 to €48 million during the same period the following year. Today, however, the Maison is showing its determination to rise again, despite the luxury market’s challenges, by re-establishing the concept of le Chic Ultime, a hallmark of Jeanne Lanvin, as the guiding principle of the reinvented house. But the brand’s strategy goes beyond a shift in aesthetics (or rather, a return to somewhat forgotten roots): the fashion house recently appointed Peter Copping, an English designer with a wide range of experience in the fashion industry, as its new creative director. 

A graduate of the highly esteemed Central Saint Martins in London, Peter Copping began his career at Sonia Rykiel, followed by stints at Marc Jacobs’ Louis Vuitton, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta, and Balenciaga. Now, at the age of 57, he will showcase his talent at Lanvin with his first collection, set to debut next January. The collection will focus on men’s and women’s ready-to-wear for FW25. While we await the British designer’s contribution to the French maison, one thing is certain: the return to quintessential chic, to the DNA of the House of Lanvin, synonymous with elegance, quality and craftsmanship since 1889, is a victory in itself.