Yesterday Milan Men’s Fashion Week concluded with Giorgio Armani’s collection in the city’s centre and although the weekend’s line-up contained names that may be innately commercial, there were a few who managed to propose interesting collections. The SS2020 runways were testaments that particularly for the genre of menswear, the concept of streetwear may be taking on a more formal structure.  With validations of workwear like the cargo pants and revisited versions of the classic men's suits, reworked into a different form of uniform, slightly more casual while maintaining a level of elegance. 

 

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This time around, more than ever, locations had a great significance in bringing forward the interpretations and aesthetic of each collection. SUNNEI presented one of their most ambitious projects with the rehabilitation of an abandoned area on the outskirts of Milan repossessed and renamed Bianco Sunnei —  stemming from the white tone in which space is painted. Space is located in the centre of an urban park in the city’s Lambrate district and will remain there, serving as a cultural centre for exhibitions and events. With this gesture, the brand helmed by the duo of Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo managed to raise conversation regarding the relationships the fashion industry holds with metropolitan grounds that often serve as inspiration. A similar discussion was raised by Palm Angels who returned to Milan with a show organised under the subway of Milan’s Porta Venezia. Donatella Versace rather drew inspiration from a childhood memory that was installed in the centre of the show’s set. A memory she pulled from her 11-year old self where her brother Gianni managed to convince her to steal their parents' car and sneak out to one of Patty Pravo’s concert. Which is how a black sports car is mounted in the middle of the runway, filled with roses — an installation by Canadian artist Andy Dixon. Silvia Venturini Fendi instead opted to nurture her relationship with nature with the first Fendi menswear show held off-site the house’s headquarters.

 

The tops and flops from Milan Men's Fashion Week The shows to remember and the ones to forget | Image 15
SUNNEI
The tops and flops from Milan Men's Fashion Week The shows to remember and the ones to forget | Image 16
SUNNEI
The tops and flops from Milan Men's Fashion Week The shows to remember and the ones to forget | Image 27
Versace

 

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Another theme that dominated this Fashion Week was sustainability. Marni created a net ceiling filled plastic bottles as a protest against ocean pollution, while Zegna aimed to be a warning against environmental pollution with a show staged in one of Milan’s abandoned treasure spaces. Great words, gestures and intention that rarely translated in clothing actually that are actually sustainable. SUNNEI, however, set a rather more pleasing example as a collaborator with Albini — a leading company in the production of cotton and eco-friendly fabrics. 

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Marni
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Ermenegildo Zegna

 

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But let's take a look at the collections. Fendi sent a male gardener down the runway interpreted through a genre of sophisticated workwear, accompanied by must-have accessories. At Versace, we saw great homage paid to the ’80s, to the musical band The Prodigy and of course Gianni. This was brought out through prints from the era, lots of washed out denim and a punk attitude perfectly paired with the house’s iconic graphics. Fresh and interesting, more adult and mature the collection by Danilo Paura.

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Fendi
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Fendi
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Fendi
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Versace
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Versace
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Versace
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Versace
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Danilo Paura
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Danilo Paura
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Danilo Paura

 

 

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The collections of United Standard and SUNNEI introduced strong aesthetics flaunting their own identities with updates and refinements on already seen silhouettes. DSQUARED2, M1992 and Marcelo Burton decided to make fashion of the elastic bands of boxers and underwear that were put on display under striped shirts and tailored pants.

 

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United Standard
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United Standard
The tops and flops from Milan Men's Fashion Week The shows to remember and the ones to forget | Image 25
United Standard
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United Standard
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SUNNEI
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SUNNEI
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SUNNEI
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SUNNEI
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SUNNEI
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SUNNEI
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Dsquared2
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Dsquared2
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Dsquared2
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M1992
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M1992
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M1992
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Marcelo Burlon
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Marcelo Burlon

 

 

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Not many sneakers were seen this weekend. Salehe Bembury designed a new model of the Versace Squalo, both in a hiking version and proposing a new combat boot decorated by a medusa graphic on its sole. Some not so hot sneaker attempts were also spotted on the runways of Marcelo Burton and Zegna who opted to render most of their footwear in lace-up, formal shoes and leather sandals. 

 

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