The historic brand of the '90s HELMUT LANG is back with Isabella Burley, the main editor of Dazed and Confused, and most of all with Shayne Oliver, who recently buried his Hood by Air as a designer.

How to approach a historical brand and redraft its codes that made it famous?

According to Shayne Oliver, the only possible solution is to develop the idea of a sexuality within which to feel comfortable, which, in the case of HBA founder, has a strong fetish connotation. Oliver is known for his show in a gay Parisian sauna and partnership with PornHub, so it's no surprise to see in his latest collection de-dressed pieces of lingerie, nudity, straps tightening bodies or strap-ons worn as outerwear.

HELMUT LANG's must models come back like Kristen Owen, Missy Rayder, Danielle Zinaich, Jake Boyle, mixed with Oliver's favorite models including Slick Woods, Selena Forrest and Sophia Lamar nightlife, as well as street kids Mekhi "Prison Bae "Lucky and Brody Blomqvist.

HELMUT LANG by Shayne Oliver SS18 A new beginning with an eye to the past | Image 0
HELMUT LANG by Shayne Oliver SS18 A new beginning with an eye to the past | Image 1
HELMUT LANG by Shayne Oliver SS18 A new beginning with an eye to the past | Image 2
HELMUT LANG by Shayne Oliver SS18 A new beginning with an eye to the past | Image 3
HELMUT LANG by Shayne Oliver SS18 A new beginning with an eye to the past | Image 4
HELMUT LANG by Shayne Oliver SS18 A new beginning with an eye to the past | Image 5

The new course of Helmut Lang coincides with provocative silhouettes, wrapped in deconstructed dresses, leather accents, and shiny maxi coat. The HBA designer takes the legendary language Lang made of industrial sci-fi materials, ergonomic shape-shifting cuts, utilitarian sports details, slender tailoring and remixes with his love for the deconstruction. Minimalism and fetishism give life, in fact, to a collection that plays with the concept of underwear and, above all, the bra that is disassembled, reconstructed and reinterpreted becoming even a bag. 

Helmut Lang Tour

The next spring-summer fashion show is also an opportunity to launch a capsule collection “The Helmut Lang Seen by Shayne Oliver Autumn Tour Merch Collection”.

A long name for a series of T-shirts and hoodies by the relatively affordable price, from about $ 150 to $ 295, which straddles the idea of designers as a rock star 

 "The inspiration" - said Oliver to Vogue.com - "came simply from music bands and the concept of being able to leave the best show you’ve ever been to with a tangible piece of the show. This is a concept that I believe the fashion world should start to understand more. Runway is always the priority; however, merch is what sells and spreads the word about the brand."