Emerging brands to watch during this Paris Fashion Week An inside look at the new guard choosing audacity over conformity
On the fringes (or right at the heart) of the official Paris Fashion Week schedule, we zoom in on five emerging labels rewriting the rules, blurring gender lines, and breaking free from traditional formats.
Five Pointed Stars (FPS): The Underground Laundromat
What is that massive truck doing parked in the middle of Paris, looking exactly like a mobile dry cleaner? It’s the pop-up installation by the Five Pointed Stars (FPS) collective, dreamed up specifically for Fashion Week. On the agenda: a rogue sale of t-shirts and jackets at fixed prices, all under a giant slogan that hits like a mantra: "We get u clean."
This is the art of offering a radical alternative to make a name for oneself outside the ultra-closed circles of fashion. Especially since FPS completely refuses to align with the seasonal cycles or schedules imposed by the industry. Its production follows a constant flow of research and innovation, in total rupture with established frameworks.
The mystery remains intact: the identity of its members is kept strictly secret. We only know they honed their skills at prestigious schools, between IFM in Paris and the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. Their logo, the star, symbolizes the pooling of their different visions and a fierce desire to unite. Their latest stunt? A highly noticed participation in the adidas pop-up for the Originals Soccer House. See you there on Friday night!
Lazoschmidl: Masculinity Unfiltered
Present in Paris last season on the fringes of the official calendar, Lazoschmidl is making a comeback in a big way. This time, the brand is setting up camp right alongside the luxury giants on the meticulous schedule of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.
Just like this winter, the duo is betting on a presentation format featuring "living" models. As a spectator, Lazoschmidl has that rare ability to instantly project us into its universe through true-to-life vignettes. The goal? To showcase their creations while redefining the contours of dominant masculinity. Here, virility is displayed as an ironic or militant slogan on t-shirts: "healthy masculinity."
As a master of text-based punchlines, the brand loudly proclaims its convictions and proves, season after season, that menswear can shift societal boundaries. For this Spring-Summer collection, the first clue lies in its title: "Daynight." We can legitimately expect darker, night-oriented pieces plugged into the party scene - sharper, more exceptional evening wear. Find out Friday afternoon.
Song for the Mute: The Official Leap
On June 25, nestled right between Givenchy and Issey Miyake - heavyweights of the fashion world—a highly desirable name made its entry into the official calendar: Song for the Mute.
The Australian brand, founded by Melvin Tanaya and Lyna Ty, proudly announced it on its Instagram account. While they obviously thanked the Fédération for this inclusion, it was first and foremost to their loyal community (following them since 2010) that they dedicated these vibrant words:
"Thank you to everyone who has written to us, spoken about us, purchased from us, or supported our brand in any way. We started this brand back in 2010 with a simple mission — to tell and share our own story in the hope of inspiring others to do the same. If we can do it, then you can too."
This marks a real turning point and a major milestone for the label, which is used to building its collections as narrative "chapters." Already solidly backed by adidas (with whom they recently signed a highly successful collaboration around the Tokyo sneaker), the brand is getting ready to unveil its next collection, titled "Summer Blues." An absolute must-see.
Rescha: The Poetic Bridge Between East and West
Charlotte Chowdhury, a French-Indian designer who cut her teeth at Central Saint Martins, Jacquemus, and Lemaire, is the force behind Rescha. Her brand positions itself at the crossroads of West and East through a womenswear line that sparks a dialogue between cultures.
Her upcoming collection, presented on this opening day, is titled "Anveshan" (meaning "exploration" or "quest" in Sanskrit). It brings together her unique craftsmanship and her hand-in-hand collaboration with artisans, recalling the rich ornamentation of traditional saris, all guided by a permanent quest for fluidity.
Fun fact: Charlotte is a regular at Men's Fashion Week, despite designing for women. Even though she isn't listed on the Fédération's official calendar, the eyes of every fashion editorial team and the capital's cool crowd have been fixed on her for several seasons. A bulletproof bet.
Talel: The Accessory UFO
Founded by Leila Roukni, Talel is the only pure-play accessory brand on this list, but its track record speaks for itself. Incubated at IFM Entrepreneurs in 2023, laureate of ADC La Relève in 2025, winner of the Fashion Trust Arabia Accessory Prize the same year, and a finalist for the Maison Mode Méditerranée: Talel has rapidly established itself as one of the most singular voices in contemporary Moroccan leather goods.
Its trademark? Triangular bags scaled in every size, to be worn proudly by hand or on the shoulder. During this Fashion Week, the label will unveil its brand-new collection titled "Eyes Wide Souk," accompanied by a fresh campaign created in collaboration with the ultra-pop artist PZ Opassuksatit. The whole collection will be presented exclusively at Lucid Interval this Wednesday.
