The polka dot trend was long overdue

We first noticed it in January, on the nails of some beauty salon clients in Milan. Then it started popping up on Vinted in the form of old blue satin skirts with white polka dots, slips, and shirts à la Bob Dylan (those who have seen A Complete Unknown will surely remember the protagonist’s outfit in the final scenes of the film). In short, after workwear, cowboy boots, Y2K accessories, and the office-siren aesthetic, Gen Z has brought another past trend back into the spotlight: polka dots. They recall the 1950s, Minnie Mouse, and the pin-ups of that era—a world Gen Z never lived through, but which somehow evokes a sense of comfort and security due to its simplicity and charm. Interestingly, not all polka dots are in fashion: on the runway, the white background with black dots prevails, while in the street style of major fashion capitals, the black background option is spreading like wildfire. Worn by all genders, without the same attachment to femininity as in the past century, this pattern says a lot about our society which, in chaos, finds shelter behind mom’s skirt.

On the runway, polka dots began to draw attention starting with the SS25 collections. However, one designer sensed their relevance before anyone else: Marc Jacobs, creative director of his namesake brand who has always had a knack for understanding and interpreting the needs of new generations. For FW24, Jacobs was inspired by Disney icons and Marilyn Monroe, later stating backstage that the show was an ode to expressive freedom. "I believe in living with authenticity - free from validation and permission of absurd conservatism and societal norms", he told Vogue Runway, a remark that clearly reflects his unrestrained passion for manicures and adorably exaggerated accessories. Following his lead, Moschino, Balmain, Valentino, and Acne Studios also borrowed some of the polka dot charm for their shows—interestingly, all brands that usually deal with nostalgia, doing so either ironically or romantically. Thanks to its popularity, in recent seasons the pattern has spilled over even onto the runways of fashion houses that don’t usually succumb to fleeting trends. Such is the case with Fendi, Altuzarra, Vivienne Westwood, and Dries Van Noten, which could suggest that, despite the Tagwalk search engine recording an explosive 185% increase in polka dots on the runway, the trend may have staying power.

While the “high” fashion industry has chosen to express its love for polka dots through frivolous garments made of ruffles and pleats, tulle and satin, microshorts and evening dresses, the street scene tells a different story. Because it's true that Gen Z loves retro styles, but it's also true that to a nostalgic pattern they want to see new silhouettes and materials combined. That’s why, while Valentino, Jacquemus, and Gucci showcased them on cocktail dresses and shirts, ’80s-style jackets, and bubble skirts, the polka dots were much more expressive on the runways of younger brands. Acne Studios played with proportions and mixed them with other prints, Vaillant focused entirely on the texture of an oversized fur, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy humorously enlarged them, and Rokh used them to create an adorable new suit that blends French elegance with British punk. Meanwhile, on the streets of Milan, polka dots end up on nails, sweatshirts, capri pants, and accessories, from bags to belts. For the lucky ones who managed to snatch a polka dot Mombasa or Corset Ring by Yves Saint Laurent from the early 2000s, it’s going to be a beautiful summer. And you have all the envy of the person who just wrote this.