What to expect from Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Balenciaga? Towards a couture renaissance for Balenciaga

Last night, at exactly 6 PM, while insiders of the fashion sphere were already thinking about which bar to hit for their chic aperitif and had completely forgotten about the fashion mercato, which has calmed down a bit in recent weeks, Balenciaga put an end to long and intense sessions of gossip and speculation by finally announcing the name of its new creative director. The successor to Demna is none other than the Italian designer Pierpaolo Piccioli, who will officially take office at Balenciaga on July 10. With 16 years of loyal service at Valentino, a history rich in high-quality, innovative, and memorable creations, and above all, a drama-free career that has run smoothly for nearly two decades, his arrival at Balenciaga has been widely praised by the fashion world and beyond. Indeed, under the guidance of Demna, the Balenciaga house had somewhat lost its luster, but more importantly, its good reputation in recent years. Between scandals, designs deemed too streetwear, too flashy and not couture enough, and a deep departure from the original Balenciaga of Mr. Cristobal, it's time for the Balenciaga ship to stop heading straight to the bottom and rise back to the surface. But to do so, it will need a good captain. So what can we expect from Balenciaga under PPP's helm?

Bold colors and mastered color blocking

If there is one art Pierpaolo Piccioli masters, it’s that of color matching. The collections he presented at Valentino for over a decade and a half proved to us that one doesn’t necessarily have to wear black to be chic, and that even the loudest colors can be elegant. In addition to the famous and iconic “rosso Valentino,” Pierpaolo Piccioli hasn’t shied away from tapping into the flashiest colors of the rainbow, let alone pairing them with each other. Two colors that frequently appeared in his creations are fluorescent pink and green, shades also often used by previous Balenciaga creative directors. One thing is certain: the new Balenciaga will say goodbye to its full black and grey logo looks, and hello to combinations of pink, green, red, blue, and yellow.

Flowers, feathers, bows, and more

Another element PPP doesn’t hesitate to use liberally without fear of going overboard is 3D. Whether it’s seen in rose-shaped dresses, tops brought to life by immense poetic flower petals, long feather trains, or skirts gently tied with a charming oversized bow, the Italian designer has made 3D creation his signature. While he also loves patterns, fabric printing, and embroidery, the dominance of 3D in his collections suggests a clear preference for the three-dimensional. An element that would also feel right at home at Balenciaga, which especially in its shoes and accessories, hasn’t feared stepping beyond flatness to embrace volume. Volume and opulence are undoubtedly other elements that we’ll continue to see in PPP’s Balenciaga. Bulky headpieces, puffed sleeves, endless trains, and balloon skirts are also integral to PPP’s visual universe and creative DNA. This also defines the essence of Balenciaga (the real one, not its streetwear version made of torn, logo-covered pieces).

A return to the essence of Balenciaga, the one of Cristobal and Ghesquière

Speaking of the essence of Balenciaga, that’s exactly what we most hope to see in this new era for the brand. When Cristobal Balenciaga founded his house in 1917, his goal was to create elegant, high-quality, well-tailored pieces. This spirit was revived by Nicolas Ghesquière, but let’s be honest, not fully upheld by Demna. With PPP’s arrival, his taste and talent for couture, chic, and fine craftsmanship, we hope Balenciaga will reclaim its couture DNA and original elegance, once again embodying French sophistication, honoring its history and past without fear of moving into the future. As long as Pierpaolo Piccioli doesn’t propose chip bags as handbags or tracksuit sets on the runway, everything should be just fine.