From catwalk to Oscars

Yesterday, on the most eagerly night in international cinema, the partnership between haute couture and Hollywood's celebrity Olympus was on the agenda. The red carpet par excellence (which on this occasion was surprisingly beige in colour) surrounded a flurry of haute couture unfortunately which some pretty clear patterns could be discerned. Not only the canonical distinction between dreamy dresses, like Tems' Lever Couture in a blaze of white tulle that blocked the view of all the unfortunates behind her in the audience, and the minimalism of those who prefer a more sober elegance, like Vanessa Hudgens in her vintage Chanel sheath dress, but also between past and present. If the iconic white off-shoulder dress worn by Rooney Mara came straight from the archives of Alexander Mcqueen, more precisely from the FW08 show which made the history of the fashion house, many garments were instead direct quotes from the fashion weeks that had just ended between Milan and Paris, complete looks from the catwalk to the red carpet without much styling effort and yet with spectacular results in some cases.

Austin Butler wearing Saint Laurent FW23

Hunter Schafer wearing Ann Demeulemeester FW23

Cara Delevingne wearing Del Core SS23

Dolly DeLeon wearing Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini PF23

Naomi Watts wearing Givenchy SS23

Jessie Buckley wearing Rodarte FW23

Yara Shahidi wearing Bottega Veneta SS23

Shonds Rhimes wearing Carolina Herrera FW23

Lisa Rinna wearing Jean Paul Gaultier FW22

Lily Aldridge wearing Balmain FW23

Tracee Ellis Ross wearing Balmain FW23

Adwoa Aboah wearing Loewe SS23

Versace, which after its "sartorial turning point" at the Los Angeles show on 10 March, immediately took advantage of the most high-profile event of the year to show its new creations in action: from Danielle Deadwyler's draped dress with polka-dot pattern and contrasting turquoise gloves to Lady Gaga's monumental gown worn by Gigi Hadid in LA. Florence Pugh in dizzying platform heels, Tiffany jewelry, and a long Haute Couture gown part of the Valentino Le Club Couture Spring/Summer 2023 collection, as well as the cloud of shocking pink fabric sported by Stephanie Hsu. Elizabeth Olsen and Naomi Watts went for sobriety with Matthew Williams' creations for Givenchy, while Imaan Hammam opted for Saint Laurent in her black hooded dress, as did Austin Butler in a sophisticated mix of an unbuttoned silk blouse, tailored trousers, and sash, all in the black of course, as Vaccarello wants.

Danielle Deadwyler wearing Versace FW23

Julia Garner wearing Off-White FW23

Fan Bingbing wearing Tony Ward SS23

Miranda Kerr wearing Elie Saab SS23

Rita Ora wearing Wiederhoeft FW23

Stephanie Hsu wearing Valentino SS23

Lady Gaga wearing: Versace FW23

Imaan Hammam wearing Saint Laurent SS23

Naomi Campbell wearing Schiaparelli SS23

Sarah Paulson wearing Nina Ricci FW23 Couture

Julia Garner chose the same wild outfit as Naomi Campbell for Off-White FW23, Cara Delevigne's romantic off-the-shoulder dress in two-tone tulle was Del Core SS23, Yara Shadidi in a fiery red dress and gloves with appliquéd floral inserts was Bottega Veneta SS23, Ashley Graham in a draped red silk dress and platform sandals chose Dolce & Gabbana FW23 instead. Paris Fashion Week debuts also found a place on the red carpet: Sarah Paulson in Nina Ricci Couture FW23 and perhaps the most successful outfit of the evening, Hunter Schafer in Ann Demeulemeester, one of Ludovic de Saint Sernin's first creations for the historic house, with a white silk skirt and a simple goose feather top, a tribute to the Belgian designer's archive (SS92).