5 things to expect from New York Fashion Week SS26 A very promising season

After several editions that often made us wonder where New York stood in the ever-changing dynamic of global fashion capitals, the New York Fashion Week, starting today, finally feels different. Not so much because of unprecedented guests, but because many of the names featured on the calendar have now consolidated their presence season after season and have become more solid and recognized brands. All eyes will surely be on classics like Off-White and Anna Sui, on the tailoring of Todd Snyder, as well as on the collections of Sergio Hudson, Wiederhoeft, and Fforme. But there are five shows that have the potential to tell us in advance where the winds of next season’s trends are blowing.

Here are 5 things to expect from New York Fashion Week Women’s SS26

1. Veronica Leoni’s new show for Calvin Klein Collection

After a debut show that covered the basics, proving solid but not overwhelming, the new show by Veronica Leoni for Calvin Klein Collection is without doubt the most anticipated of the season. Not only because it will better clarify and sharpen the identity of the brand’s new line, but also because Leoni’s Calvin Klein Collection has the potential to become one of the new institutional pillars of a fashion week that, with Tom Ford and Willy Chavarria showing in Paris, strongly needs that mix of prestige, tradition, and authenticity that we could call “pedigree.” And then, as Italians, how could we not root for one of our own? A show we will certainly be watching closely.

2. Obviously, Sandy Liang

How could you not love Sandy Liang? Since her first live show in February 2019, Liang has been steadily refining a style that is instantly recognizable and deeply compelling, proving she can dive headfirst into a femininity made of hearts and ribbons without ever becoming cloying. In fact, Liang is truly masterful in her command of her own language, as well as in her execution that never misses a beat. Her delightfully camp flourishes and the consistency of an aesthetic that, despite its eccentricity and eclecticism, never falls apart, have made her show one of the most eagerly awaited of the coming week.

3. KidSuper returns to America

Over the years, KidSuper, aka Colm Dillane, has had the rare ability to raise the stakes of his collections considerably. His brand is colorful, pop, and vibrant—yet he has managed not to fall into the trap of superficiality, creating instead a world of his own: exuberant and playful but never foolish or meaningless. After being a guest designer at Louis Vuitton before Pharrell’s arrival, Dillane became a fixture on the Paris calendar. This show in New York therefore, marks a homecoming, and his partnership with Brooklyn Borough Hall, which should see him collaborate with five independent Brooklyn creatives, promises to be particularly exciting.

4. Toteme’s quiet luxury

For quite some time now, Toteme has been one of the benchmark brands for accessible luxury on this side of the world. The brand’s aesthetic is rigorous, its growth organic, its bags beloved, its reputation impeccable. Toteme has crafted its own version of quiet luxury, filtered through clever, subtle design touches. That is why it has worked so well—and continues to do so—and also why we’ll be following this show closely.

5. Coach’s new appeal

At a time when Europe’s fashion elite seem far from unraveling their own knots, Coach is steadily upping its game. Its collections are highly tuned to Gen Z’s tastes, and in the last FW25 show, we saw a cropped, fitted suede jacket that we’re still thinking about. Of course, though, the true workhorses are the bags, which allow the American brand to generate millions. The last show was undeniably cool, even if with room for improvement, and now we’re curious to see what creative director Stuart Vevers has in store for us.