Levi's relaunched the Jeans Lot 201 in Japanese selvedge denim

Good news for denim fanatics: Levi's has just relaunched the Jeans Lot 201 and the Jacket Lot 213, two items that have made history for the brand. First created in the late 19th century, these two models became popular in the United States during the 1920s due to their affordability and durability. The 201s were the perfect alternative to Levi's 501s, which at the time were much more expensive, yet maintained the same quality. Riding the wave of attention that selvedge denim—one of the most beloved fabrics among vintage enthusiasts—is currently receiving, Levi's is preparing to relaunch a limited edition of the best-selling jeans from the early 20th century. This release will consist of only 800 pieces, the brand announced, made in Japan using the highly praised Japanese shrink-to-fit selvedge denim, which, compared to traditional jeans, is heavier, tighter, and more durable due to the use of a traditional shuttle loom.

Through the use of new technologies, the brand will attempt to reproduce the 201 and 213 as faithfully as possible. In addition to the exclusive craftsmanship, the jeans will feature adjustable buckles, branded buttons, and copper rivets, along with Levi's original Two Horse patch, just like the old ones. Judging by the collection description, Levi's Vintage Clothing's selvedge denim will have nothing to envy from the edition of a century ago—except for the price: while the 201s were once considered the most affordable, this year's limited-edition drop comes with a slightly higher cost, with the jeans selling for 500 euros and the jacket for 600. In a way, buying the brand's new selvedge denim is like purchasing a piece of history: from 1920s Californian workwear to 1970s Japanese craftsmanship, the fabric has shaped international street style for an entire century. While in California, the 201s were originally bought for their durability and affordability in the early 20th century, Japan discovered the true value of selvedge denim in the '60s and '70s when the arrival of polyester led many Americans to abandon shuttle looms. As a result, selvedge denim, besides being a sustainable garment, carries a piece of history. Levi's Vintage Clothing has stated that the 201s they are about to relaunch will be the first ones not produced in America.

It must be said that 2025 is shaping up to be a great year for Levi's. In January, the brand caught the attention of the film industry thanks to A Complete Unknown, the Bob Dylan biopic starring Timothée Chalamet. For the occasion, the Levi's Vintage Clothing team collaborated on the film’s costume design, later launching a collection that paid tribute to the singer-songwriter's favorite jeans. In February, the bootcut model discovered a new market segment thanks to Kendrick Lamar’s halftime show at the 2025 Super Bowl. The jeans worn by the rapper were by Celine, but after his performance, global searches for bootcut jeans increased by 32%. Interestingly, part of the invention of bootcut jeans is attributed to Suze Rotolo, Bob Dylan's former girlfriend, who—before the singer’s favorite brand launched the model—used to sew an extra piece of fabric onto Dylan’s Levi's so he could wear them over his boots. In short, from the revival of selvedge denim to the reintroduction of long-lost editions, and the comeback of one of the brand’s best-selling models, it seems that Levi's Vintage Clothing is thriving.