A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

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Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all

The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph

Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph
Photographer
Su Shan Leong

There are only four collections to date by Mark Gong, a young Chinese designer who made his debut in October 2023 at Shanghai Fashion Week and, in a very short time, has become the most internationally loved designer in Shanghai. Yesterday’s FW25 show, then, came as a sort of “victory lap” after one of Gong’s creations appeared in February on Thai megastar Lisa during the Oscars ceremony. Beyond the impeccable styling and the extraordinary cohesion of his collections, what makes Mark Gong and his shows special is a sense of storytelling and theatricality that seems to derive directly from the “themed shows” that made Galliano and McQueen legendary in the '90s. His first show revolved around the office world and career women, the second imagined a series of elegant women who, after drinking too much, left their lover’s house in the middle of the night; the third, drawing from Sex & The City, envisioned a group of wealthy New York housewives rebelling against domestic duties, while yesterday’s show was dedicated to the early 2000s it-girls like Paris Hilton, Lindsay Lohan, and Britney Spears. Gong’s talent fully emerged in his ability to channel that imagery without directly referencing it: rather than simply replicating, the designer reinterpreted – making his references clearly evident without reducing them to a flat nostalgic citation.

Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560824
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560823
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560822
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560821
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560820
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560819
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560818
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560817
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560816
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560815
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560814
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560812
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560811
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560810
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560809
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560807
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560806
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560805
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560804
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560803
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560802
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560801
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560800
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560799
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560798
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560797
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560796
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560795
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560794
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560793
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560792
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560791
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560790
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560789
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560776
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560788
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560787
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560786
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560785
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560784
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560783
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560782
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560781
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560780
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560779
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560778
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560777

Alongside a series of very strong looks featuring hourglass jackets with fur-trimmed lapels and skirt ensembles that were both elegant and provocative, there were some elements that might have seemed derivative: the oversized jackets with dropped waists worn over sheer dresses, as well as certain transparent blouses, were somewhat reminiscent of Saint Laurent; the cropped cardigans and sweaters paired with workwear skirts and tailored trousers nodded to Miu Miu; some of the more Y2K-inspired styling choices echoed the playful irreverence of DSQUARED2. Yet, all these echoes (which are not a negative thing, considering that almost every brand today is drawing heavily from Prada and Miu Miu’s collections) remained echoes without becoming mere copies – Gong incorporated these references into his style and made them his own. Particularly striking were the blazer dresses with a '60s feel, refreshed by an ultra-short skirt hem; the daytime looks, with oversized pants and mini cardigans, appeared as idealized versions of a style many aspire to today, blending a mix of ruggedness and charm; the topless looks where the models’ torsos were covered only by a fur stole or a jacket. There was no lack of a self-ironic sense of camp: the “I love Mark Gong, Money & Boys” t-shirt was amusing, as was the Oscar statuette carried by a model, winking at Lisa’s look from this year’s Academy Awards ceremony. A type of Internet-friendly irony that is almost impossible to find today – especially when paired with such a formidable series of mini tube dresses, sky-high heels, and regal fur stoles.

Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560891
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560890
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560889
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560888
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560887
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560886
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560885
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560884
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560883
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560882
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560881
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560880
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560879
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560878
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560877
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560876
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560875
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560874
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560873
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560872
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560871
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560870
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560869
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560868
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560867
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560866
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560865
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560864
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560863
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560862
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560861
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560860
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560859
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560858
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560857
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560856
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560855
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560854
Mark Gong is simply the coolest of them all The FW25 show presented yesterday in Shanghai was a triumph | Image 560853

Gong's vision was so vivid because the inspirations and references he made to past it-girls all fit into an aesthetic framework that made the collection, as we mentioned earlier, particularly cohesive: first of all in terms of colors, but even more so in terms of tone and attitude. This is not a minor detail because those references were not entirely new – yet they retained their freshness precisely because they were references and not direct citations. In other words, Gong's vision emerges so clearly and fascinatingly because the designer strives to be original without either borrowing his ideas outright from others or over-designing his looks to the point of making them impractical. The so-called “Gong Girls” are not just sexy – they are also extremely cool. So much so that, following Gong's career progression and seeing him dress one of the world's top pop divas, one might wonder how long it will take before a major European luxury group hands him the keys to one of its maisons. Aside from the many cargo-pocketed pieces that Gong seems to love (and which he incorporated very sparingly in yesterday’s show), his touch would be perfect for several Italian or Parisian brands that are currently a bit creatively lost. Overall, Gong's collections could easily be presented in Paris without fearing comparison with other brands.