
Loewe shifts to a co-ed presentation for Paris Fashion Week
Jonathan Anderson comes backs on the Fashion week calendar, but not as expected
February 4th, 2025
The calendar for the upcoming Fashion Week Ready-to-Wear FW25 in Paris has just been revealed, bringing plenty of surprises. From March 3 to 11, 72 runway shows and 37 presentations will take place, some featuring highly anticipated debuts that are also very promising, such as Sarah Burton at Givenchy, Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford, and Julian Klausner at Dries Van Noten. But we’ll get back to that later; for now, let’s focus on one piece of news that caught our attention: Loewe’s format change. While its creative director Jonathan Anderson has accustomed us to spectacular shows within the magical walls of the Château de Vincennes, this time the Irish designer’s FW25 collection will be unveiled in a static format through a co-ed presentation.
This is not the first time in recent weeks that Jonathan Anderson and the Fashion Week calendar have surprised us. Back in December, when the schedule for the recently concluded Paris Men’s Fashion Week FW25 was unveiled, the absence of Loewe as well as JW Anderson, the designer’s personal label, did not go unnoticed. While he had already justified skipping the Paris runways in January by citing this later co-ed collection, his absence nonetheless amplified rumors regarding the fate of Jonathan Anderson, the brands he heads, and even Dior. Indeed, before news of Kim Jones leaving Dior Homme broke, whispers of Anderson potentially taking over Dior were already swirling. All this came in the midst of the departure of Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez from Proenza Schouler, whom the fashion world viewed as potential successors to Anderson at the helm of the Spanish house.
But let’s set aside fashion gossip for a moment to focus on today’s news: this unexpected format change. As nss already wrote last December, fashion and the Fashion Week calendar are undergoing a reevaluation of the codes and habits surrounding collection presentations. Considering the exorbitant costs brands face to organize shows that last only about ten minutes, many are rethinking their strategies. Beyond the absence of major names—like Prada, Dolce&Gabbana, or Armani—from the FW25 Men’s Fashion Week calendar, some equally prominent peers like Gucci, Fendi, and now Loewe have opted to present a co-ed collection during the women’s Fashion Week in February, a simple and efficient two-in-one operation. While presentations certainly have less media impact compared to grandiose runway shows that dominate social media, the good news is that, at least for this Fashion Week, we won’t be missing out on Jonathan Anderson and his rarely disappointing creations.