Gucci's new collection is a triumph of essentiality

“Casual grandeur” has been the motto guiding the latest collections of Gucci by Sabato De Sarno – the idea of ennobling the everyday, with one eye on those 20th-century grandes dames (Jackie Kennedy in primis) who lived and breathed couture even in the most informal moments of their lives; and the other on a rather radical idea of modernity, a purism so stark it borders on austerity but is actually geared towards a sensuality that is both practical and subtle. With the turn of the year, the brand has revised its approach and will begin merging its men’s and women’s collections into a more unified Co-Ed format, the first example of which is Gucci’s Pre-Fall 2025 collection presented today, showcasing its advantages through the fifty-five shots of the lookbook. Gucci is a brand built on a strong artisanal foundation but which, over its century-long history, has come to embody a lifestyle, an imagery: the hedonism of the international jet set and the unapologetic elegance of those who belong to it. Various designers have offered different interpretations of this imagery, and Sabato De Sarno’s efforts have focused on distilling it into its clearest and most undeniable essence, favoring pure notes over nuances and compromises – an undeniably hyper-modern approach aimed at delivering a solid and cohesive aesthetic.

In the collection presented today, everything revolves around textures: artificial furs, the smoothness of leather – sometimes finely grained, other times coarse – the compactness of outerwear, the sheen of patent leather, and the softness of silk and twill details. The best part of the collection is that, by intertwining menswear and womenswear, their mutual correspondences and harmonies achieve a unique completeness – the resulting impression is one of extreme clarity and refinement, with a palette that flirts with the unconventional, especially in looks featuring pink, solid green, and, of course, the Ancora red that punctuates the collection. Tailoring is another high note: the women’s suits are precise and succinct, creating an elongated silhouette that contrasts with the rounded softness of the bags and shoes; the men’s suits are softer, with the standout being the grey suit. There are also curved-effect coats whose collars can be raised and fastened, revealing contrasting leather surfaces. Sunglasses, jewelry, and silk bandanas lend a sense of ease to these looks, further softened by bows, looser volumes, and details that temper the collection’s strong minimalism. The Flora motif, meanwhile, is also printed on select pieces with geometric and meticulous precision.

Accessories remain indispensable protagonists of the collection: touches of flair and hyper-modern design that enliven otherwise structured ensembles. The Jackie 1961, perhaps the most iconic bag ever created by the brand, is reimagined in new interpretations combining suede leathers and archival details, including the celebrated Web stripe. The Blondie, on the other hand, adorned with a circular logo rendered in soft shearling, introduces a luxurious sense of comfort to its already renowned elegance. The true novelty is the Gucci Softbit, a bag that reinterprets the classic Horsebit with a soft, minimalist, and contemporary design, ideal for those who appreciate sophisticated yet understated style. Footwear also plays a fundamental role: for her, chunky loafers with heels available in varying heights, blending practicality with boldness; for him, innovative designs featuring functional details like the removable penny, offering a new level of versatility without sacrificing the allure of classic charm.