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Ermenegildo Zegna's reset for the FW21 collection

Alessandro Sartori redefines the new classics of formalwear

Ermenegildo Zegna's reset for the FW21 collection Alessandro Sartori redefines the new classics of formalwear

When it comes to sartorial codes, especially as far as Italy is concerned, we often refer to a notion of elegance as classic as it is often rigid and invariable. But just as the company that generated those codes has radically changed in the last historical period, even those codes need an update or, as Alessandro Sartori, creative director of Ermenegildo Zegna, would say, a reset

For the FW21 collection of the brand, in fact, Sartori has completed the extraordinary work of modernization of the men's uniform cultivated since his arrival at the helm of the Maison. Reflecting on the nature of evolution as both external and interior adaptation, as well as on the modern fusion of work and leisure, Sartori has made the codes of tailoring fluid: externally proposing a new paradigm that makes the men's dress absolutely modern; inwardly making that same tailoring intimate and comfortable. 

The collection, therefore, follows a new and smoother rhythm that has materials at its centre: specifically a new generation of jersey fabrics that makes the shapes of the garments soft, enveloping and adaptable. Thinking of its designs as expressive of the modern fusion of interior and exterior, the luxury of loungewear and that of the atelier become one: shawl collars and heavy dressing gowns such as coats, the track-pant becomes a precious and refined product and even handmade slippers rewrite the old boundaries of formality. The playing field of this rewrite is shapes, weights and materials. Cashmere work coats replace sports outerwear, hybrid jumps suits are in double cashmere and come close to suits, knitwear replaces classic shirts and heavy cashmere and knit sweaters become outerwear. The briefcases, the most famous symbol of the business world, are also deconstructed.

This collection marks, as has been said, the zenith of Alessandro Sartori's creative process in translating the centenary archive of the Zegna house into a new and modern language. The fact that this reset takes place in an age of sudden changes makes this collection even more emblematic and desirable. Sartori commented saying:

We all are experiencing a new reality concerned with new needs, which lead us to previously unseen lifestyles and attitudes. It is precisely at a time like this, when everything is under discussion, that we, at Zegna, have decided to (Re)set. We have looked at our roots to (Re)interpret our style codes and (Re)tailor the modern man. Outdoor and indoor come together and a new way of dressing takes hold, where comfort and style blend to create a new aesthetic.