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Saint Laurent SS19 show was a tribute to Yves

The most iconic items of the house reworked by Anthony Vaccarello

Saint Laurent SS19 show was a tribute to Yves The most iconic items of the house reworked by Anthony Vaccarello

The second day of PFW closed yesterday with a spectacular show, probably the best seen so far in all these Fashion Weeks, Saint Laurent. Creative director Anthony Vaccarello brought the guests once again at the Trocadéro in Paris, right in front of the Eiffel Tower, to present the SS19 collection: 95 looks between tailored jackets, minidresses, kaftans, swimsuits, minishorts and skirts, plateau sandals and dramatic hats. A strong, convincing, glamorous and polished collection, a clear reference to the founder of the Maison, Yves Saint Laurent. Vaccarello, in the backstage of the show, said that he was inspired by the founder's gift of reimagining classica codes to create something new. The Italian designer tried to follow the footsteps of the Master, looking back in the archive of the fashion house, paying tribute to its genious founder. 



Starting from the setting of the show the tribute to YSL was clear. At the bottom of the symbol tower of Paris, in fact, Vaccarello built a pool-catwalk (where the models would walk without worrying about ruining the shoes or drenching the dresses), with a line of palm trees at the side. A detail that recalls Marrekech, Yves's favourite city, where his second home featured a lush graden, full of palm trees too. 


Yves Saint Laurent used to send to friends and family the so-called Love Postcards, holiday cards to celebrate the New Year, an habit he kept for more than 30 years. The cards were decorated with colorful drawings and writings and details like hearts and stars. Vaccarello reworks the stars on suede minidresses, black short jumpsuits and long black chiffon gowns. 

Safari Jacket

It's one of the most iconic pieces of the entire Saint Laurent universe. Worn for the first time in 1969 by the woman who called herself 'Yves's sister', Betty Catroux, the safari jacket becomes immediately one of the symbols of the fashion house and a recurrent item in all the following collections. For the SS19 the creative director shortens it and pairs it with black skinny pants and golden boots. 


Hats have always been a central element in all Saint Laurent's collections. Straw, bowler, wide brimmed, to hide or show the faces of the models, they're a fundamental detail in every look. Saint Laurent yesterday brought on the catwalk less wide hats, worn straight on the head, or slightly back, hanging on the back of the head, black or burgundy. 


One of Yves's muses, Naomi Campbell, walked the runway in 1999 wearing pinstriped pants, a leather jacket and, above all, a black bra with lace details and a satin bow. Model Binx Walton, on the other hand, yesterday was wearing high-waisted black pants paired with a bra always with a bow, but with transparent and feathery details. 


Of all kinds: tight or oversized, ruffled worn underneath velvet blazers, printed all over or completely see-thorugh, low-cut or pussy-pow, shirts have been part of the Saint Laurent's DNA since the beginning. Vaccarello continues the tradition, adding a rock'n'roll and western inspired mood. 


Yves Saint Laurent's belts would tighten the waist of jackets and dresses, to underline the forms of the female body, usually high and with a round buckle. For the SS19 Vaccarello keeps them high, but in black leather with maxi silver buckle, to then make them thin again, with an oval locking, in leather or suede, to adorn shorts, minidresses and pants. 


In 1965 Yves uses for the first time feathers as ornament for a dress, a detail that would have later taken over entire haute couture dresses: Laetitia Casta's 2000 white minidress was entirely cover with feathers, with feathery shoes and hat as well. For this season feathers are back to decorate the edges of bras, dresses and glittery pants. 


YSL AW89 show was closed by another dear muse of Yves, The beautiful Guinean model Katoucha Niane walked the runway wearing a black dress to the ankles that features a black cape closed on the neck with a jewel detail. Yesterda's SS19 show was closed once again with a tribute to Yves: model Julia Nobis, over black pants and a see-through blouse, was wearing a black cape.