Indie bags are giving the luxury segment a run for its money

The luxury leather goods segment is going through a particularly difficult phase. After being put under pressure by the economic crisis, by the systematic price increases of major Maisons and the boom of the second-hand resale market, the bag sector is now facing additional complications, such as the tariffs introduced by the United States and the scandal linked to Chinese manufacturing. A complex situation that has significantly eroded consumer interest in major luxury names, increasingly perceived as synonymous with an imbalanced quality-price ratio. As highlighted by a recent investigation by Business of Fashion, consumers seem to be shifting towards new independent brands that promise quality comparable to that of luxury, but at more reasonable prices. The economic crisis and the widespread perception of expensive but often less well-crafted and overly "ubiquitous" products have fueled a feeling of distrust towards major traditional brands, creating space for smaller, less conventional players. Between those who decide to withdraw models from the market and those who adopt new sales models, it seems that while ultra-luxury focuses on raising prices, indie brands are trying to capture that aspirational market share left to themselves.

According to BoF, the popularity of indie bags is not only due to the economic advantage but also to the originality of the design. Amy Zurek, for instance, after gaining experience at companies like Coach and Khaite, founded Savette, focusing on practicality and personalization. Similarly, Métier, founded by Melissa Morris after working at Armani and Helmut Lang, has made its bags more "accessible" compared to the great classics, offering customers practical information that directly addresses their everyday needs — such as the exact dimensions needed to carry a laptop, a detail often overlooked by brands like Hermès. Another key factor highlighted in the investigation is the growing sensitivity toward uniqueness and the expression of one's own personality. Consumers, as noted by Beth Goldstein, an analyst at Circana, want bags that truly represent them, rather than simple status symbols tied exclusively to a brand name. This phenomenon is exacerbated by the negative perception of traditional luxury models, often seen as elitist and "gatekeeping." While the major maisons continue to re-propose iconic models now saturated in the market — in an attempt to stimulate purchases — smaller brands like The Row with the Margaux and Toteme with the T-Lock model have managed to reach unprecedented levels of virality thanks to their focus on design innovation, especially in a landscape where, season after season, even luxury brands strongly draw inspiration from one another.

Although the growing success of independent brands in winning over aspirational customers marks a new era for the leather goods segment, it is also necessary to look at the world of bags with a less idealistic eye. Often, buying an indie bag today does not equate to making a safe investment like in the case of a luxury or ultra-luxury bag, especially when considering the second-hand market. In an era of inflation, recession, and economic uncertainty, looking at fashion requires more strategic clarity than emotional impulse: it’s not just about chasing the trend of the moment, but about identifying those pieces that will maintain value and relevance over time. After all, this is exactly the dynamic that Chinese consumers, long fleeing from "standard" luxury to more solid and collectible ultra-luxury, have already clearly understood. Of course, there are virtuous exceptions — like the Croissant Bag by Lemaire, which continues to strengthen its presence — but cases where the success of an indie bag fades quickly are far more common, as demonstrated by the example of Coperni's Swipe, which went from extreme TikTok virality to now being on sale across many platforms. Increasingly, independent brands manage to gain a flash of notoriety thanks to bold or fashion-forward designs, but struggle to build a legacy that extends beyond fleeting trends. In an increasingly competitive market, standing out is no longer enough: endurance is key.