The eternal sensuality of slim sneakers

After the overwhelming success of 2023, it was believed that the adidas Samba would reach market saturation in the short term. Contrary to predictions, not only have they continued to maintain their appeal, but they have also anticipated a much broader trend in the fashion world. Looking at the footwear of the past year, it is evident that sneakers are undergoing a transformation that goes far beyond a single model: soles are thinning to the point of almost disappearing, reflecting a cultural and aesthetic shift that affects society on multiple levels. Emphasizing this trend, one name stands out: Kanye West, who at the beginning of the year introduced the SL-01 to the market at a price of €19.95, a model that resembles socks more than actual shoes. But how did we get to this point? There was a time, not long ago, when the bulkier the sneaker, the more successful it was, riding the wave of streetwear and oversized fashion. That was the era of chunky sneakers, whose aesthetic manifesto quickly became the Balenciaga Triple S (2017).

Many things—actually, a lot—have changed since then. It was the same French maison that launched the Zen model in 2020, an ultra-thin and leather-free shoe reminiscent of Puma's Mostro Perf Leather. At that time, however, the model fell under the broader umbrella of ugly sneakers rather than marking the beginning of a new minimalist footwear trend. Meanwhile, the lockdown arrived, bringing with it a consumer passion for understated taste, a preference for slim silhouettes, quiet luxury, basics, a fascination with vintage, and the Y2K revival that made the Onitsuka Tiger Mexico 66 desirable once again. The balletcore trend also played a role, intertwining with these factors to determine a new direction for the footwear market. On one hand, the evolution of today’s Old Money style, or simply whispered luxury, has brought loafers back into the spotlight. On the other, the trend inspired by classical dance has triggered an inexplicable desire for ballet flats (Pinterest searches for "balletcore" have skyrocketed by 1,566%, while TikTok posts related to the trend currently stand at 94.8 million). Miu Miu’s satin versions, as well as Alaïa’s leather and crystal designs, have driven a global trend since their release in 2022, leading to the launch of hundreds of dupes on the market.

The hybrid between these two worlds, immersed in a general climate of vintage appreciation, naturally finds its way into the sneaker market, which, despite its volatility, continues to grow steadily. According to a Statista report, the global market value of the sector is expected to reach $101.7 billion by 2030, with a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 3.5%. Following the release of the Balenciaga Drive in 2020 and the Paris in 2022, the entire luxury footwear industry has embraced the trend, especially in the past year, with models that are flat only in sole—but certainly not in price. Nostalgic, slim, and rich-looking: from the suede sneakers by Dries Van Noten, one of the hottest products of LYST Q2-2024, to collaborations such as New Balance with Miu Miu first, and Issey Miyake later with the launch of the MT10O for SS2024, Loewe’s ballet runners in nylon, all the way to the Prada Collapse, which, according to Lyst, have seen a 291% surge in demand, available in leather, suede, or Re-Nylon, passing through Alexander McQueen’s sleek, retro-style Flexion; and finally reaching the naked shoes like the Five Fingers by Vibram.

Further solidifying the trend are the Puma Speedcat, the season’s it-sneaker, and the countless replicas flooding the mass market. From Cos to Zara, it didn’t take long for others to position themselves with their own low-cost versions of thin sneakers. As Kate Moss once put it: «nothing tastes as good as skinny feels». What makes this trend still so relevant and popular—almost as if sneakers had been given a dose of Ozempic? On one hand, these SL models can adapt to numerous variations of an essential aesthetic; on the other, it's also a matter of proportions. Over the past few years, not only have shoes changed, but fashion as a whole: whereas exaggerated soles once paired with skinny jeans, today, in a reversed paradigm, the response to wide and baggy pants is ultra-light sneakers. Is it finally time to say goodbye to soles?