Why bags were the real stars of Hermès' ss25 collection
Between reinterpretations of timeless classics and nods to equestrian heritage
September 30th, 2024
While the models followed one another in a fashionable single file and the looks paraded in a gradient of beige, camel, brown, and burgundy, one category of pieces managed to win over the otherwise critical audience of the Hermès SS25 show: the bags. While the 62 looks presented two days ago ranged from leather to suede, from opacity to transparency, and from black to fuchsia, the bags that accompanied them were equally impressive, presented in a wide array of colors, materials, and most notably, shapes. If we were to categorize them, two subgroups of leather goods stand out distinctly: the reinterpretation of timeless classics and the equestrian-inspired bags. So let's take a quick look at these accessories that, for decades, have contributed to building but especially cementing the reputation that the renowned French Maison enjoys today.
The Birkin, an emblem of the Maison, was of course present and literally turned heads. Instead of presenting it in yet another color, Hermès introduced the bag this season inside out. In a mix of durable canvas and leather, the bag is completely deconstructed, with its signature flap and straps on the outside, along with a functional pocket reminiscent of the Backpocket pouch. Then comes its cousin, the Shoulder Birkin, a short-handled version of the Maison’s classic bag worn on the shoulder, reimagined as a baguette bag while staying true to its original DNA and structure. Another classic, perhaps a little less spotlighted at Hermès but no less recognizable, also illuminated the runway: a reinterpretation of the Derby travel bag, created by the Maison in 1926, whose name is still relatively unknown today. Paired with elements from the much-loved and better-known Plume (which was also present on the runway), this new style offers a fresh everyday option with its elongated horizontal silhouette, complete with horse hoof-shaped gussets.
However, the SS25 collection featured much more than Hermès' classic leather goods. One recurring theme in both the outfits and accessories was that of the equestrian world. The cabas tressage, for example, paid homage to the equestrian heritage that helped found the Hermès Maison, showcasing two materials that resonate deeply with the brand: leather and horsehair. Speaking of horsehair, another model highlighted this material even more explicitly, the Cabas Corricolo, completing the playful horsehair fringe collection with its meticulously layered construction, inspired by iconic flapper dresses from the 1920s. In an equally explicit homage, there’s the Sabot osier with its distinctive shape. The Picotin bag, though more discreet and with a more implicit reference to the equestrian world, returned to the spotlight after a four-year absence, making a comeback for Spring-Summer 2025. To conclude in style, we finish with the Maximors, a cylindrical bag introduced on the runway in 2022 but now returning in force with autumnal hues, perfect for the upcoming season. A flawless collection for the Hermès Maison, sure to make anyone want to trade in their trendy canvas and fabric bags for a timeless and eternal selection of leather bags.